KESI901PWH01 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Unplug range. Remove upper sheet metal panel on back of range (2-3 screws). Disconnect the electrical leads (3). Push the old switch out the front of the control panel. Pop on the new switch, reconnect the leads. Reattach the metal panel on back. Plug it in.

I was stopped by the third screw on the roof of the oven, which was slightly rusted and would not budge in spite of using WD40! I had to enlist the aid of my son who arrived with better tools, including a SQUARE phillips head socket set. He also had to spend some time pinching and slightly reconfiguring one of the attachments in the back which did not slide together naturally. So, for an 82 year old retired housewife this was not as simple as it looked, but it was a piece of cake for guys like Erik with the know-how and the proper tools!

Using the video from PartSelect I followed the steps shown. Sliding the range out was difficult so I tilted it forward resting the frame on a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I did have to crimp on a new terminal. The repair was straightforward.

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

1) Remove power from range. 2) Carefully unsnap and pull out the old switch. 3) Remove wires using pliers. 4) Attach wires to new switch. 5) Snap in new switch.

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Removed old fan by removing all screws except the back two lower screws - here I cut the flange on the old fan to remove. Drilled the back two bottom holes so as to fit over existing screws then replaced the top 3 and bottom 2 screws as well as power leads. Offset screwdriver is a must.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

It went fine once you imbeciles sent the right part, thank you for miss labeling it on the website and costing me time, a week without an oven, and extra expenses. The inner GLASS is the inner GLASS, not the middle glass of a layered three glass door!

It most likely would have gone quickly had we ordered the right part!

First I turned off the power. Next I disconnected the downdraft vent. Then I removed the cooktop knobs and turned it upside down on the counter. I then removed about 12 screws to remove the element housing. I then unsnapped the old element, disconnected the 3 wires, replaced it with the new element, replaced the housing and screws. I replaced the cooktop, reconnected the downdraft hose and turned on the power.