KESI901PBS01 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.

Removed the top light, removed the 2 screws in the light pan and pulled the control panel over the stove top. Held controls exactly as mounted, removed wires from the old control and pushed on to the new ones. Removed the 2 screws that held the controls to the panel, tossed the old control and put in screws to the new controls securing them to the panel. Remember to unplug the range first. And, a secure bar that maintains the push button panel will have to be maintained, so tape before removing any parts.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

1) Remove power from range. 2) Carefully unsnap and pull out the old switch. 3) Remove wires using pliers. 4) Attach wires to new switch. 5) Snap in new switch.

unscrew cover
remove old bulb
screw in new bulb
replace cover

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Removed old fan by removing all screws except the back two lower screws - here I cut the flange on the old fan to remove. Drilled the back two bottom holes so as to fit over existing screws then replaced the top 3 and bottom 2 screws as well as power leads. Offset screwdriver is a must.

First I turned off the power. Next I disconnected the downdraft vent. Then I removed the cooktop knobs and turned it upside down on the counter. I then removed about 12 screws to remove the element housing. I then unsnapped the old element, disconnected the 3 wires, replaced it with the new element, replaced the housing and screws. I replaced the cooktop, reconnected the downdraft hose and turned on the power.

It went fine once you imbeciles sent the right part, thank you for miss labeling it on the website and costing me time, a week without an oven, and extra expenses. The inner GLASS is the inner GLASS, not the middle glass of a layered three glass door!

It most likely would have gone quickly had we ordered the right part!

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables