KDRP407HBU10 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

took out door hinges, slightly close door, lift upwards, remove clips on bottom of door, remove screws from 2 inner layers of glass, insert new glass, perform revers order reassembly..cleaned all inner glass, and surrounding parts prior to reassembly

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

Door repair assembly was simple, did without any instructions or manuals. Fan assembly, the actual fan replacement was easy, it was the number of pieces of metal that needed to be removed i order to get the main rear panel off to access. Also had to remove panel from inside the oven; requires two people to loosen screws from inside while the other person holds the fan assembly from the rear side of the oven. Didn't have any instructions for this task either, figured it out anyway, just follow the layers.

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

pull out the stove,took the top back panel off, take off wires one at a time on new spark module.. easy

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Instructions were clear and the work was easy. Take your time and think about what you are doing, and you won't have any problems replacing the glass.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

find the owner's manual & follow the instructions for inserting two allen wrenches (assuming that you cannot find the "removal tools" that came with the oven) into the holes near the hinges on the door, carefully & slowly close the door with the wrenches inserted until the hinges disengage from the wall mounted oven. Lift the door away (is rather heavy). It is necessary to remove panels from the front one layer at a time to reach the 3rd layer of glass (the inner most glass that is the rather easy one to break). Be slow and methodical. Not a challenge once you study the owner's manual for door removal instructions.