KDRP407HBU10 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Took off the covers and replaced the little bulbs. Took a long time to figure out how to get the covers off. Bulbs were $26 apiece!

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Door repair assembly was simple, did without any instructions or manuals. Fan assembly, the actual fan replacement was easy, it was the number of pieces of metal that needed to be removed i order to get the main rear panel off to access. Also had to remove panel from inside the oven; requires two people to loosen screws from inside while the other person holds the fan assembly from the rear side of the oven. Didn't have any instructions for this task either, figured it out anyway, just follow the layers.

Instructions were clear and the work was easy. Take your time and think about what you are doing, and you won't have any problems replacing the glass.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

find the owner's manual & follow the instructions for inserting two allen wrenches (assuming that you cannot find the "removal tools" that came with the oven) into the holes near the hinges on the door, carefully & slowly close the door with the wrenches inserted until the hinges disengage from the wall mounted oven. Lift the door away (is rather heavy). It is necessary to remove panels from the front one layer at a time to reach the 3rd layer of glass (the inner most glass that is the rather easy one to break). Be slow and methodical. Not a challenge once you study the owner's manual for door removal instructions.

This 60 y.o. female had no owners manual. I completely relied on the information of this forum. *Recommend having a work area prepped before starting. I used a thick beach towel on the kitchen table. A layer of newspaper to catch all the dirty bits is a good idea.*You must remove the door - I followed the instructions using the allen wrench in the holes of the hinge. Open door. I put the short end of the wrench in the hole and leaned the long end against the oven rim. Start closing door and when almost closed, lift up to remove.*Place door handle side up on work surface to remove the 4 screws that hold outermost glass in place, 2 at top and two in brackets at bottom. Lay this aside in safe place on table. *Take off each layer to reach broken glass. *The hinge assembly has to be removed and the allen wrenches have to come out in order to accomplish this. Squeeze the hinge to take pressure off wrench to remove. Gloves help protect your hands for this step.Remove 2 screws each side. Keep each hinge next to the side it came from so you reassemble correctly.*If you have a phone with photo capability - I recommend you take a photo of each disassembly step. This saved me when it came to replacing the two brackets that hold the inner two pieces of glass. Clean all parts before reassembly (this takes the longest amount of time). I placed a thick cup towel in my sink and scrubbed. The cleaner I use for my glass range surface worked best. Dry thoroughly. When you get to the shattered glass remove it very carefully to avoid damaging the insulation underneath. I wish I had just purchased replacement insulation. Once the glass is replaced, everything goes back in reverse order. Now, here's the thing. I spent alot of time scrubbing. So, by the time I got to reassembly, I was bamboozled by the two 10 inch aluminum brackets that hold the two inner pieces of glass in place. So, to avoid any confusion, pay close attention to how these two brackets are placed or take pictures. This was an easy fix that went really well thanks to all the helpful info found here.

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I took the door off the hinge, laid it on the kitchen island and began to unscrew the outside screws. Be sure to have a bowl to place all the screws so none fall to the floor. I would recommend taking pictures with a camera phone as you dismantle each piece. The extra time was spent trying to remember how to put the 4 panes of glass back together....and if I had pictures to refer to it would have been easier. SECOND TIP- DO NOT have your husband help with any of this. I probably could have finished in less than 30 minutes if I was doing it by myself. Once he went to bed, the reassembly was much easier.

I removed the oven door using the instructions in the book that came with the oven useing 2 allen wrenches as described. I called up the parts list for the oven door on my computer and made a copy.This was very helpful in removeing the door and getting to the broken glass and installing the new glass The one thing that that i regret was not ordering the insulation frame that went around the new glass. It was difficult getting it back in place.I would order this part if I have to do this again. I ordered the new glass on a Saturday and the new glass was delivered on Tuesday.Thank you for the great service. Bill- Texas

I did not remove the door. After removing as much broken glass as possible, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the door, pushing a bit against the plastic oven vents so the screwdriver could fit into the screw heads. I then removed the two screws on top of the oven door. This releases the outside of the door. I then removed the two bottom screws holding the bracket that holds the piece of glass fitting into the slot at the top. I bent back the tabs with pliers, cleaned the last bit of glass out of the slots, and then put the new glass in and bent the tabs back as much as possible. It actually was pretty tight. The rest is just cleaning and putting the pieces back together. Just be careful as the four screws that go into the top and bottom of the door are actually different from the other screws. Just make sure you keep all screws separated and use them as removed. Not too bad, just time consuming.

After a couple hours of frustration, I finally called the repair man and had it fixed properly. All the instructions I got from the the various websites didn't really address my model. Just getting the door off the over (with my type of lock) was a challenge. It is really important to have the proper tools for this job and I didn't have them. Live and learn.

As I did not have a manual, I found all the website instructions very helpful. I had quite a hard time after installing the glass to figure out how to put it back together. The insulation between the oven glass is tricky to keep in tact. I also did not have allen wrenches to keep hinges open, so I used a variety of large bolts and screws. Finally after lots of hours, and almost calling a repairman, I did do it!