YKERC508LS0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.

We had been missing it for years. Perhaps it melted, maybe the dog. Anyway, Home Depot didnt have the match. I order the exact knob, received it in a very timely manner. Took it out of the package, and without any tool, placed it it it rightful spot. My wife is happy now. Thanks for helping me.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.

I received the replacement broil element for my Kitchenaid model KESH307 range 34 hours after placing the order online with PartSelect.com! I had previously removed the old element and verified that the outer circuit was open. I did this without removing the oven door. I realized that to install the new element with the door on would require me to have 5 foot long arms and a very flexible 2 foot long neck.

Turns out there are at least 3 different styles of door mounting in the Kitchenaid line. I found the correct one for my range, and when the new element arrived, I had the door off in a jiffy. Enlisting my spouse to hold the oven door switch so as to keep the light off (It shown in my eyes.), I installed the new element with minimal difficulty. It took me about 20 minutes.

Thank you PartSelect for being there and for the really quick delivery.

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

took the back off stove to get to switch take pictures of where wires go as well as make a schematic this made it fairly simple no problems glad I did it

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!

PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!

To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:

1. Disconnect power to the oven.

2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.

3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).

3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.

4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.

5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.

6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.

7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).

8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.

9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!

10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.