KERC507EBL4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Removed door from range. Removed the surrounding door molding. Removed the 5 retaining clips for glass and replaced inner glass. Reversed the above steps to complete installation.

Thanks for the previous viewer's tip, disconnect power, pushed the cook top out of the counter and used a wood block for the support. Unscrew the smooth top from the burner, remove old and plug in the new one. Connect power, test OK. Put everything back.

Instructions on line were very helpful. The only problem was getting the screws loose on the clamps that held the glass in. If I was going to redesign this door I would use Hex head screws that can be removed with a nut driver. Most of the time for the job was taken up by cleaning off accumulated grease. You will be surprised how much gunk can get inside the door.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

Turned off electricity at breaker, slid stove out from wall. Disconnected unit. Removed back panel (4screws). Disconnected double broiler wires from the back. Unscrewed element bracket from back wall of oven (2 screws). Removed and replaced element and replaced screws to back wall of oven. Reconnected wires on the back of the oven where element connectors protrude from oven wall. Replaced back panel (4 screws). Removed oven door by pulling forward (no screws involved). Removed screws from bottom of door holding trim on (7 screws). Removed bottom trim and side trim. Removed front glass. Removed inner portion of door (it's just stacked together sandwiching some insulation). Removed track holding 2 glass panels (6 screws and pressure brackets). Removed one screw from corner of track. Removed and replaced inner glass. Lay door flat on floor front down to reassemble. Place glass insulation (looks like rope) around window opening. Lay the track containing he replaced glass down (side with most shallow recess). Replace 6 screws and pressure brackets. Replace large insulation and inner door panel. Reinstall front glass in slots under door handle. Replace oven door back. Reinstall side and bottom trim in reverse order to removal. Replace 7 screws along bottom of door. Reinstall door assembly to oven by sliding tabs back into the range. Done!

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

Turned breaker off. Removed oven door for access, two screws loosened element, unplugged wires from element & removed element. Reverse order to install. Perfect fit. Thanks.

Remove two screws. Plug n play.

TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE RANGE, DISCONNECTED THE ELECTRIC PLUG. I unscrewed the element attached to the oven, disconnected the connectors. Reconnected the element and screwed the part back to the oven. EASIER THEN I THROUGHT.

removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.