KERI500EWH2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Removed back panel on stove and found no continuity in bake element indicating a break in the element circuit. Also tested electrical supply up to the element and found that we had electricity up to the element when the oven was turned on. Went on line and ordered the bake element and it was on my doorstep in 48 hours. Remove 2 screws inside oven and disconnect wires from the rear and install new element and plug the 2 wires into it, replace rear panel ( 3screws) and turn electricity back on to the stove and you are back in business.

removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.

New electric stove was out of my price range. I ordered one electric burner and 3 drip bowls. looked at part select instructions and repaired 2 that didn't work. Now next month I'll order one more part to fire up the last burner. Also following their clear instructions and I'll have a full working electric stove for a little over 100.00 dollars, as opposed to a new one at over 900.00.Thank you for your help.

I watched some videos on YouTube first that said you could flip a latch on the door hinges and remove the door entirely. On this older oven there was no latch, you just open the door to its first position and lift up and out to remove the door. Unlike newer doors leave this one face up on a table to work on it. Remove all (10?) of the screws along the bottom edge, pull away the side door trim pieces, then remove the outside panel of the door by lifting slightly then pulling downwards. Mine was actually a glass panel, so be careful. Remove the two screws holding the upper door trim down onto the hinge mechanisms and rotate the trim out of the way. Lift off the large metal cover to expose the first, outer glass, then remove the insulation, then remove the screws and clips holding down the metal frame around the inner glass. Clean everything well (I used a baking soda paste), then replace in the reverse order.

The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.