KERC601HBT3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Edward from Lower Gwynedd, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP9782033
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
left hinge had snapped, couldn't close door
Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted
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- Customer:
- Paul from East Greenwich, RI
- Parts Used:
- WP9781593
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace broken glass within oven door.
Overall the project was not bad. There are many pieces to the door. Carefully observe the order in which the door comes apart. This will make putting everything back together a lot quicker. The screws that hold the glass clips in the door were almost impossible to remove by hand. A power drill was helpful. Extra time was needed to wash off the baked on crud. When it was all done, the oven looked brand new.
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- Customer:
- ernest from coplay, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP9781593
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
cracked inner door glass
removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.
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Clearly, the bulb was the problem. The gasket is an invitation to more trouble.
Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.
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- Customer:
- John from Natick, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP9781593
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Inner door glass cracked after cold water spilled onto the hot glass.
As others have said, the repair is easy and it's just a matter of unscrewing the screws (with a drill, not with a hand screwdriver) and carefully arranging the parts so you can reassemble in the same order. The trickiest part for me was removing the door. The flat metal part of the hinge extends straight back into the stove about four inches. You need to open the door a bit (about 45 degrees worked for me, but any angle where you feel you have leverage vis-a-vis the hinge will work) and then lift the door at the hinge slightly while pulling straight back. I was worried the hinge would spring out and cut my fingers off, so I kept my fingers away. As it turns out the hinges didn't snap down once the door was removed, so at least on my stove the hinges were not as scary as I imagined they could be. The whole process was a one-person job, though if you have two people, it would be nice to have one person on each side of the door while removing it and replacing it when done. All in all, it was definitely worth it in time and money to do this repair myself -- the oven was back up and working within a day of the broken glass, and I'm sure I couldn't have gotten it done any sooner had I called someone to repair it.
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- Customer:
- William from San Diego, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10823697
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The left rear element failed
First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.
I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.
I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.
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- Customer:
- Mark from SHOREVIEW, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP9781049
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
left cover for the oven light broke when trying to replace the bulb
Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- phillip from RUTH, NV
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
small inner burnner out
looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video
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- Customer:
- wayne from LIMINGTON, ME
- Parts Used:
- WP9781049
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
oven light glass cover was broken
took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.
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- Customer:
- Brice from Spotsylvania, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10823697
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
left rear burner not working
I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.
Thank You
Thank You
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- Customer:
- Dominique from ASHLAND, MA
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
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- Customer:
- Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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- Customer:
- Larry from WYMORE, NE
- Parts Used:
- WP9750213
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven element quit
Easy.
Remove 2 screws.
Remove wires from old element.
Attach wires to new element.
Replace screws.
Took 5 minutes.
Remove 2 screws.
Remove wires from old element.
Attach wires to new element.
Replace screws.
Took 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Chris from WHEATON, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Old dual burner lost one half. It appeared the metal strip that wound into and around the circle, broke right where it came into the inside of the entrance, and I wasn't about to try and break everything open to try and fix it, as it didn't look like soldering would be easy, or that it would fix it.
Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.
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- Customer:
- Louis from Puyallup, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP9781593
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken inside oven door glass
The repair went very well the most difficult was getting the door off. There is a certain way to do it as the springs in the door are very strong. It went well except for a small cut a thumb. The repair is easier with two people at least to get the door removed. You must be very careful to remember how the door comes apart. Be careful to not touch the glass putting it in once it is installed it is impossible to get the finger prints off. With help of a friend or in this case my son along with a couple of bloody marys it went well and we had fun.
thanks
thanks
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