YKERC607HB8 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

As others have said, the repair is easy and it's just a matter of unscrewing the screws (with a drill, not with a hand screwdriver) and carefully arranging the parts so you can reassemble in the same order. The trickiest part for me was removing the door. The flat metal part of the hinge extends straight back into the stove about four inches. You need to open the door a bit (about 45 degrees worked for me, but any angle where you feel you have leverage vis-a-vis the hinge will work) and then lift the door at the hinge slightly while pulling straight back. I was worried the hinge would spring out and cut my fingers off, so I kept my fingers away. As it turns out the hinges didn't snap down once the door was removed, so at least on my stove the hinges were not as scary as I imagined they could be. The whole process was a one-person job, though if you have two people, it would be nice to have one person on each side of the door while removing it and replacing it when done. All in all, it was definitely worth it in time and money to do this repair myself -- the oven was back up and working within a day of the broken glass, and I'm sure I couldn't have gotten it done any sooner had I called someone to repair it.

First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.

I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.

First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W

The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge

2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.

3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.

4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both

5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations

6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element

7. Put everything back together in reverse order.

Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Had to remove side panel then very easy

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.