KESC307HWH8 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

As others have said, the repair is easy and it's just a matter of unscrewing the screws (with a drill, not with a hand screwdriver) and carefully arranging the parts so you can reassemble in the same order. The trickiest part for me was removing the door. The flat metal part of the hinge extends straight back into the stove about four inches. You need to open the door a bit (about 45 degrees worked for me, but any angle where you feel you have leverage vis-a-vis the hinge will work) and then lift the door at the hinge slightly while pulling straight back. I was worried the hinge would spring out and cut my fingers off, so I kept my fingers away. As it turns out the hinges didn't snap down once the door was removed, so at least on my stove the hinges were not as scary as I imagined they could be. The whole process was a one-person job, though if you have two people, it would be nice to have one person on each side of the door while removing it and replacing it when done. All in all, it was definitely worth it in time and money to do this repair myself -- the oven was back up and working within a day of the broken glass, and I'm sure I couldn't have gotten it done any sooner had I called someone to repair it.

First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.

I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.

removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

Had to remove side panel then very easy

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

First BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER!!! Remove the oven door if you need to get closer to the work. Then remove the screws securing the the element to the the oven. There were two on each side in the back where the element goes they the wall and two more that held the element to the upper surface. Carefully pull the element out to gain access to the wires and terminals. Gently pull each wire off one at a time, being sure not to allow the wire to get pulled back into the rear part of the oven. Reconnect each wire securely to the new element. Doubly check each connection! Then replace each screw and you should be set!

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.

I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

removed side and back strips after pulling out stove, removed top glass , installed new insulating tape around edges fitted new top on stove and replaced trim strips.