KSEG700EBS6 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

1) unplugged rnage from wall
2) took off back plate to unhook electrical from element
3)took door off of range for ease of access
4) removed the 2 screws i the back of tha bottom panel
5) removed 1 screw in front and 1 screw in back to be able to remove old element.
6)remove element and replace with new one.
7) reinstalled both screws and the bottom panle.
8) connected electrical to new element
9) replaced back cover and plugged in unit to wall
10) put range back in place.

I purchased cleaning supplies for my new range!

Lifted the range burner top removed the old element and installed new burner unit .

I pulled the range out from the wall, then unplugged it from the wall outlet. I removed the oven door & set it aside. Removed the screws covering the rear wiring shield, then disconnected the 2 leads from the bake element. Unscrewed the screws holding the oven floor pan, then unscrewed the screws holding in the original element. Replaced it, screwed everything back together, and pushed the oven back against the wall. Took me about 30 minutes, and now the oven works as well as it did when we first bought it.

The You Tube video for replacing the Element was very useful. Let me know exactly how to proceed - it was easy.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Unplug from power source, remove panel on back of range, unplug power connections for bottom element on back of range, remove bottom pan in oven installed element, put back together in reverse. Video on parts select website is the bomb!

I've replaced oven heating elements before, but never in a 3 year old electric range oven. I watched the video again after the element arrived, and installation was easy with only 2 screw drivers. I was concerned about the repair when I saw the severity of damage to the old heating element and the underside of the bottom oven metal/ceramic plate, which was almost burned (a hole) through. After finishing the installation the oven showed it was preheating but no heat was being generated. A couple of phone calls later, a Whirlpool repair technician told me the main control panel needed replaced- $385 much higher cost due to chip shortage, inflation, and would take 2 months to arrive due to supply chain issues. So I don't know yet if the element is good or not. I am disappointed that the element blew in a relatively new appliance, but a total cost of $600 in a 3 year old oven is still probably better than $1200 for a new oven which is double the price I paid in 2018. Part failures never come at a good time but 2 months without an oven at Christmas & New Years is added frustration. When the heating element burned out there was a loud buzzing sound associated with the failure, which I've never experienced before and there were flames coming from underneath the bottom plate in the oven for an extended period of time. The repair for the heating element itself went smooth, but be advised you may get into more than just the element.

Repair has not been made yet still waiting for the part. The part is on order and was told it would be shipped in 1/3 business days. Still waiting for the part to come from China. This is the problem with parts being made out side the U. S. A.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks

The repair was very easy, though expensive. Just slid in the racks and installed new bottom with only two screws to remove and replace after setting the bottom pan in place..