KFGD500EBS10 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

First I removed the lower tray and all parts covering the ignitor on the upper oven. 2. Then I removed the screws holding down the ignitor and flame distributor. 3. I then had to pull out the oven from the wall and remove the back panel to expose the wires connecting the ignitor. This required the removal of about six screws but they were fairly easy to get to. 4. I disconnected the ignitor from the back panel then went around to the front of the oven and pulled out the ignitor and all of the attached parts. 5. Here's the tricky part. The screws holding the ignitor in place had fused from the heat and then the threads stripped when I tried to remove them. I had to use a dremel tool and cutting wheel to carefully cut the screws off and then went to buy some replacement screws from the hardware store. 6. I replaced them with a nut and a bolt, to hopefully avoid the same problem for later replacement if necessary. 7. I then replaced everything the same way it came out and all is working like new!

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

Lifted door off hinges; removed lower oven spill plate; unmounted bake igniter from heat shield; pulled stove away from wall; removed rear access panels (4 screws); unplugged bake igniter; installed new part; vacuumed behind stove and mopped floor (this took more time than installing the part); oven is back in cookie baking mode!

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

removed panel from back 4 screws. unplugged ignitor wire to lower level of upper oven, top wire is for broiler.Slid oven door off its hinges(very heavy)removed wire rack removed 2 screws from bottom pan lifted out,lifted off burner guard, looks like it may have had nuts to hold it down at one time , mine were missing. lifted out burner assembly. removed 2 screws holding down ignitor, they stripped out had to drill holes slightly larger and install new one with screws and nuts I had on hand. Used long screw driver pushed in from behind to guide ignitor wire back thru the insulation. reinstalled everything in reverse and it worked like a new. $50 part part saved us $2000, we were looking at replacing it with a new oven but we really liked what we had. Very satisfied, and wont hesitate to tackle next repair job with help from this web site.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

easy-peasy remove small panel on back
disconnect in the back of range-oven "orange wire"
unscrew igniter from burner inside oven
remove and replace with new one
slide wire thru hole in back of oven
reconnect---u r done
dave

Remove door, racks, unplug, remove lower burner cover two screws, the burner tube deflector pan two wingnuts, the burner tube. With igniter attached, remove back of range 4 screws to expose connector to igniter, unplug then remove burner tube, then igniter, replace igniter feed through back of oven wall and reconnect igniter reverse process and its done

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

Pull out unit from wall in order to access back panel.
Unplug and turn off gas.
Remove the entire back panel (there is no small access panel like there is on other units. You must remove the whole back panel.)
Open the top oven door and remove rack, then remove the bottom heat shield, unscrew igniter.
Unplug the igniter from the back of the range. If you don't what wire it is have someone jiggle the wire from inside the top over while you look from the back of the range.
Pull out igniter.
Perform all steps again in reverse.

Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.

cleaned the hole and inserted glue, then the rubber feet.

Did the diagnostic tests from the literature provided in a bag on the back of my stove I had no idea it was on the back of my stove because I had this stove installed when it was brand new
The final test indicated the igniter was bad and this is a common cause due to age wear and tear and just use of the oven
So I ordered one. It came extremely fast
It was a an OEM part
I had the oven back in operation in 15 minutes that includes R&R of the stove back and oven racks and inside fire tube covers and fire tube
I then replaced the bad igniter with the new one on the fire tube then reinstalled the fire tube
Then I did the Prefire test with the Gas turned off and the igniter lit beautifully
Then the final test was I turned on the gas and did the Prefire test again AND the fire tube lit up and beautiful blue flames came out the fire tubes tiny holes
Then I finished putting the back and inboard fire tube covers back on
Then I put the racks back in
This is what I did from start to finish and the Most important thing was I made my wife extremely happy