KGSC308LSS0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

Pulled insulation out of the way to feed wires through. Might have helped to tie pull string to old wires but fishing them through was not to difficult.No need to cut wires; it is not a good idea to make unnecessary splices.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

The repair was so easy. The part came in a box and as I expected it was an exact match. I closed my eyes...counted to three and behold the part was installed. I don't think that installation could have gone any better. I would buy again from this company if I needed parts for any appliance.

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

pull out the stove,took the top back panel off, take off wires one at a time on new spark module.. easy

Very simple, cleaned out what was remaining of the old rubber feet and just pushed these in. I didn't bother glueing them in as I didn't feel they would fall out. If they do, I'll go out and obtain the glue that is mentioned by others in this thread. Very satisfied.

Repair was super simple . Any one could have done it.

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr