KEDS207BWH1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I ordered gray enamel drip bowls and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately 2 of them were chipped and bent slightly. They still worked which was better than the make shift ill fitting ones that came with the house so I decided to keep them. I did tell parts select about it and they sent me a new order of drip pans at no charge. I used the perfect ones but the 8" drip pans flaked off paint after one use. I guess this is an Amana defect...the paint doesn't stick under heat.

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I first removed the two screws (located on the inner side of the door about halfway from the top) which hold the hinges to the door. With the screws removed, I was able to remove the entire door by grasping the door on each side and puling up and sliding the door away from the hinges.

The rest involves deconstructing the door by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.

You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.

It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

This purchase was for replacement parts, not for repair. Installation was a simple matter of taking out the old and installing the new, which is extremely easy to do. One item was damaged; Parts Select was absolutely fantastic to deal with regarding replacement! One word of caution regarding the product - I mistakenly ordered Whirlpool drip pans which have an opening in the bottom, the Maytag pans don't. Initially I thought that it was a mistake by Parts Select; which wasn't the case. The pans fit perfectly so I kept them. If I reorder, I will be certain that I order the correct pans.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

First I removed the oven door from the unit by removing the screws that are located approximately 6 inches from the bottom of the door. After the screws have been removed be aware and take caution when you pull the door up and away from the unit. The hinges are spring loaded and can casue injury. Once the door has been removed from the unit place it front side down on a soft rug or cloth to avoid any scatching. Remove the two philips head screws from the top of the door and the two philips head screws from the bottom of the door. carefully separate the interior steel panel from the exterior panel. Once the panels are separated you will see the first pane of glass. Remove the four nutscrews that hold it in place. Behind this pane of glass you will find the xterior pane of glass. remove it and install the new piece. Be sure to clean the glass before you install it. Replace the parts in reverse order and soon you will be cooking again.

I read several posts of this glass door replacement before ordering and was a little hesitant, but after looking at my stove door broken for a number of years I decided to make a move. I searched the site found item # PS337162 and ordered it. The posts didn't sound too complicated. The glass arrived in two days, the repair went amazingly fast 20 min max. The following worked well for us:

1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.

2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.

3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.

4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.

5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.

6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.

I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.

All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

No repair. I've used the new one and like the one that cracked on the wiring it works beautifully. I APPRECIATED THE VERY QUICK RESPONSE FROM YOU AS I RECEIVED IT IN ONLY 2 DAYS. THANK YOU

I received my ordered in less than a week. It was great. The day I got them I remove the old burners and replaced them with the new ones. It took me about 3 minutes total. I was then able to cook my Christmas dinner with out any problems.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.