KESH307HBL5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Ceramic cooktop: Turn off power to the unit. remove long "locking" screws from underside of the unit; remove clips (may take a little effort if they are "frozen" in place) From underneath unit lift it up and out of the counter - do not try to lift from ceramic top- remove 4 control knobsun - remove 12 screws (3 per side) attaching ceramic top to the unit - carefully work ceramic top off the bottom frame; its a friction fit - do not force it. Place ceramic top in a safe, flat space. Note the orientation of the burner - you will need to replace the new one in the exact same orientation - also note the connections on the existing unit and match them to where they will go on the new unit. (note: my old unit had a black wire that was replaced by a solid metal strip) work the wire clips off the existing unit, flip it ove and note the number on the "clock face" where the spring clips attach. You may need to drill a small pilot hole from the top side. remove the spring clips from the old unit and place them on the new unit. These clips align the unit in the proper location and provide proper contact with the bottom of the ceramic top. Replace the top gentley working it onto the base and replace the 12 screws. Place the unit back in the countertop being careful to lift up to reposition so you don't disturb the foam tape along the edge of the opening. Replace the clips in the side of the unit, replace the mounting screws, replace the control knobs, turn power back on. You should be done. Takes about 30 minutes.

A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Removed burned out burner, replaced new burner tested works fine

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

Open oven door and remove two screews with 5/16 nutdriver to remove hole top of stove.Just lift up gently on front of top and pull toward you and when about 4 inch clearance on back of top you will see where all the wires connect ,press the side tabs of this big connector and it will release very easy to remove the top.Place top on bath towell upside down on countertop and remove 4 screws and 2 clips on the bad burner with the same 5/16 nut driver and remove the three wires and reinstall the same way then reinstall the top on the stove in the same order.Very Easy Job

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

12+ yr stove . double burner switch shorted out. replaced switch first.. shorted out agian. Then figured that the burner may be the source of the problem .. maybe the limiter was shot and overheated switch. purchased a new burner (Amazing 2 day delivery at std shipping rate!) removed 8 screws for the glass top & 5 for the burner control pannel in front. removed and replaced the burner with new one. Interestingly, the burner is held up in place to the stove top by a single flexable wire running under it. Was able to still use newly short switch. replaced top.. working fine ever since! Have not done this yet. But, in removing the control pannel identified an adhesive stip of foam tween the stop top and control pannel that got ripped up a bit in the seperation of the two. I suspect this was put there to prevent spilled water on stove top from leaking down to the inside of control pannel. Have to ask what I should replace it with. a caveman could do this. Disappointingly, my teens were not impressed, but happy to get a stove back so they could eat again. So for $150 I saved buying a $1.6k new stove.

In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!

PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!

To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:

1. Disconnect power to the oven.

2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.

3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).

3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.

4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.

5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.

6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.

7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).

8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.

9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!

10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies