KERC500EWH5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Margaret from PUTNAM VALLEY, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven was overheating and locking the door. Codes indicated the temperature sensor could be the issue.
Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board.
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from COVINGTON, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stove got way too hot
Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes
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- Customer:
- Deborah from MILWAUKEE, WI
- Parts Used:
- 814229
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Storage drawer would not completely open.
Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!
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Heating elements heating too long and not cycling
Removed the top light, removed the 2 screws in the light pan and pulled the control panel over the stove top. Held controls exactly as mounted, removed wires from the old control and pushed on to the new ones. Removed the 2 screws that held the controls to the panel, tossed the old control and put in screws to the new controls securing them to the panel. Remember to unplug the range first. And, a secure bar that maintains the push button panel will have to be maintained, so tape before removing any parts.
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- Customer:
- Jon from Saint Louis, MO
- Parts Used:
- W10823698
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner was non functioning
Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)
Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.
Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.
There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.
There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.
There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.
Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.
Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.
The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.
With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)
In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.
As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.
One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.
Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin
Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.
Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.
There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.
There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.
There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.
Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.
Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.
The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.
With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)
In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.
As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.
One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.
Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin
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- Customer:
- Thomas from BOSSIER CITY, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP9750967
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Only half of the broiler element would get hot enough to glow
First BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER!!! Remove the oven door if you need to get closer to the work. Then remove the screws securing the the element to the the oven. There were two on each side in the back where the element goes they the wall and two more that held the element to the upper surface. Carefully pull the element out to gain access to the wires and terminals. Gently pull each wire off one at a time, being sure not to allow the wire to get pulled back into the rear part of the oven. Reconnect each wire securely to the new element. Doubly check each connection! Then replace each screw and you should be set!
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- Customer:
- charles from batimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP9782033
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
hinge on oven door broken
I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .
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- Customer:
- Larry from Corona, CA
- Parts Used:
- 814229
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Nylon roller on bottom oven shelf broken off
The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.
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- Customer:
- Elizabeth from HOUSTON, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8203546
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
wire came loose and shorted out
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Duarte, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10355051
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
cleaner
just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you
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- Customer:
- Frank from Palm Coast, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8203546
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
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- Customer:
- RAYMOND from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- 4396923
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broiler pan missing
ordered new broiler pan
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- Customer:
- Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 350930
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Both outside door handles turned very beige
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Eduardo from Lenexa, KS
- Parts Used:
- W10823698
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
the burner didn't work and digital part too
I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables
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- Customer:
- Robert from CLINTON, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP4448972
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The light bulb burnt out, the assembly was damaged by the rack sliding in and out
This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures
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