KERC607HBL8 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed the door just like you would do when cleaning the oven; I placed the door on a blanket on the kitchen table and carefully disassembled the door. There were more parts than I expected so keeping track of where everything went was important. I might add that without the use of my cordless variable speed drill motor removal of some of the screws would have been difficult. Adding the weight of the drill motor with sufficient push power I was able to tap the switch which "snapped" the screw loose. Don't think I could have done it with a hand type screw driver without stripping the head. Knowing your tools is very important.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation

removed back of stove, removed 2 screws holding element, disconnected element and removed it, then reversed procedure. excellent service from part select and will use them again when needed.

In my situation, removing the control panel first required pulling the range unit forward to expose the side screws, which first required removing the screws holding down the stove (tilt prevention. Those screws are accessed by removing the bottom range drawer). Replacing the switch was a breeze. Very important to label wires before removing them from the old switch. Also, over the years, food liquids that spilled on the range top "gunked up" the front gasket seal of the control panel. Suggest cleaning the gasket as part of the repair - something a DIY should always do! Leave it better than you found it. When I removed the current switch, I could tell by looking at the LED terminal post there were burn marks which suggested there was indeed a fault in it. For about $45 I replaced a switch that would have cost over $200 for a repair person to come.

Read all others' directions and suggestions. Screw loosening spray was essential to remove the bracket holding the broken piece. Print out the blow-up showing parts from website. Read directions on removing and replacing door in original manual. Lay oven door on counter top front side up with hinges hanging over edge. I prefer a manual screwdriver - less risk of stripping screws. Start by removing screws at bottom edge. Next, side strips and then top piece with handle. Removing layers, being careful to keep them in order and turned the right way. Note the center piece of glass is held in place only by the parts around it so everything has to be tight and aligned. Put back together in reverse order with replacement glass part. My 10+ year old oven is as good as new. BTW I am a 67 year old woman.

Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.

Moved stove away from wall, cleaned ( hadn't been moved in 17 years). Disconnected Dual Broil Element, replaced with a new one, stove worked fine.

I read all the repair stories here. They gave me the courage to try it. I pulled the oven door out and up. I placed the door HANDLE SIDE UP on a pad on a table. I removed the screws from the bottom and sides and began disassembly. First the bottom, then sides. I came apart easily, I set the insulation aside, then removed the screws and bracket holding the glass. I cleaned all the parts and glass. I replaced the glass and insulation and put it back together in reverse order. I put the drill/driver clutch on low so as not to strip any screws. I checked for tightness with a hand screwdriver. I re-attached the door to the oven by pushing both tabs into oven simultaneously. It took a couple of tries. In all, the fix It wasn't too difficult. I was able to handle it all myself except that my wife helped with cleaning the parts and glass. Now it looks like new again.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

I live in a small town in South East Colorado. We have just a Walmart and Sears and a few smaller hardware stores. I checked all of them to try to find this 25 1/2 inch Fluorescent Light Bulb, and nobody carried one. I would have had to drive 70 miles to find one. The Service of Partselect was wonderful and the bulb showed up in just 4 days. I was lost without this light. I have bought a few other items for my older appliances in the past from Partselect. com and was very happy with the service and how easy the web page is to navigate. .