36291201004 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the face of the range back. I did not need to remove the three screws in the back like I thought - just the two torx in the front panel. 2) I lifted the clock face assembly out and up. 3) Look at the very simple wiring. Mine had white and red wire coming out of the "power block". 4) I looked at the old circuit board to see which is line and which was neutral. There was no designation. 5) i removed existing wires. 6) I unscrewed the old clock from its moorings, and saved screws. 7) I made sure the up/down orientation of the new clock was the same as the old one. There is an "up" word on the new circuit board, but with the clock upside down, make sure the buttons are correct. BTW, I had to affix the new clockl/timer cover plate onto the replacement clock, using that "up" word on the new circuit board to orient it. 8) I attached the Red wire to the Line connector on the new circuit board, and the White wire to the prong labelled neutral. 9) I used the old screws to secure the new clock to the range back. 19) There was an extension wire included with the new clock. I did not need to use it. 11) I wrestled the clock/timer back into the range itself, using the two torx I removed to secure it. 11) The new buttons on the left (Timer and Clock) are reversed, so now the Timer is the top butting and the bottom now sets the clock. 12) I do not like the feel and action of the new buttons. They are very stiff, and not particularly easy to push.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.

Took the old pans out and put the new ones in. Simple as pie

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

nothing to it.

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Turn off power to oven. Removed the rack. used a 1/4" nut driver and removed the two screws holding the element to back of oven. Slid the element out, unhook the two wires clipped to the end of the element. Replaced it with the new element, installing it in reverse. Took about 15 min. Rememer to turn off power to oven before attempting to work on it.

Removed old socket, I had replaced with a aftermarket that really did not work well. When I recieved the terminal block kit from your company it was the proper kit. Service was better than expected, part and price was great and it took very little time ti install. Thank you.

My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!

just slipped it in

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

easy, less then 15 min. but take off door first makes alot easier. and don't forget to unplug, like i did. just a few sparks but no damage thank god.