62920237 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Shut off power to range. Removed 4 phillips screws under control panel. Tip bottom of control panel up and out to unhook it from the range top. Remove half of old lens piece from slot in bottom of plastic lamp fixture. Insert smaller end of new lens through front of control panel hole. Slide lamp fixture slot over the inside end of lens until it clicks into place. Replace control panel. That's it.

Removed top plate, disconnected old switch... Had to go to hardware store to get different push washers - the ones supplied with the part were too small. connected switch... tested connections and replaced top plate.

Easy job. Anybody can do it. This replacement is accessed from inside the oven.

1. Remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws that attach the backing element plate to the back wall of the stove.
2. Carefully and slowly pull out the element as far as you can to expose the two Faston connectors and wire.
3. While holding the heating wire exiting the baking element with the needle nose pliers, carefully remove each female Faston connector.
4. Installation of the new heating element is the reverse of above. I highly recommend that you use the needle nose pliers to hold the heating wire behind the male (spade) Faston connector while installing the female connector. This will prevent bending of the heating wire.
5. I also recommend turning on the new baking element to a high temperature for about 10 minutes with the door partially open to get rid of the new heating element odor before you bake any food.

lift out old filter, wash, put in new filter.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

Disconnected power from the stove. First I removed the down draft vent cover on stove top, then the two screws that held the switch plate in place, then used a wood chisel to pry the switch housing retaining washers off. Removed the remains of the old switch, Installed new switch, attached wires, and reinstalled switch plate. Placed vent cover on stove top and reconnected power.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Unscrew the two screws. Pull the element out a few inches. Unclip the wires by pulling them apart. When we did this the wires retracted back into the opening. It was difficult to reach them and pull them back out. Be sure to hold the wires or clip something on them to hold them out till you can attach the new element. Attach the new element wires and screw the plate back on.

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads

Had to remove the glass top and the control panel and the panel bracket then use angled needle nosed pliers to compress the retainers then pull the switch from the inside of the oven

Installation was straight forward as the new vent cap was sized correctly for exhaust pipe (5 inch). Placed the mounting plate into the exhaust pipe and used 4 SS screws to anchor to house sheathing. The vent flapper was not flat, requiring that I carefully stress relieve it at 250 degrees and hold it flat while cooling to take warp out. Snapped it in place afterwards and then bolted on cover.

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Turned of electrical power. Loosen two screws that held the stove top part that held the switch. Disconnected the old switch by removing the two clamps that held it in place, made sure wires were connected correctly on the new switch and used the new clamps to attach the switch in place. Put everything back together and turned stove power back on. Everything worked as it should.