99531 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

The new handle, braces and screws arrived as quoted. My son-in-law installed the new one without much trouble. The handle is black and matches the black front of my stove. The older handle was sort of a wood-brown. Thus I like the new one better. Thank you for good service and prompt attention to the problem.
Linda Archibald
Hanson, MA

After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

Disconnect power to the oven at circuit breaker. Most important confired power removed by turning on buner,also with electrial meter. Remove hex screw. Pulled purner forward approx 3 inches remove the two wires to burner element . Installed new burner reverse rotation . Returned power to oven,all was well no problems. Not to sure of burner wattage on old and new unit,as two burners are avaiable for this unit. All ok . Thanks to parts select for speedy part needed

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Locate and shut off 220 volt breaker to Stove/Oven. Remove baking racks from oven. Use phillips screw driver to remove two phillip head screws holding bottom baking element in place. Slowly pull out element/wires and use volt meter to check for presence of voltage. Remove wires from element by pulling off female spade connector, push wire connector onto new element, carefully push wiring and element end thru rear opening and secure with the two phillip head screws. Replace baking racks, turn 220 volt source back on and test element to a high temperture, leave oven door open, new element will smoke slightly and create a burning odor, so take a few minutes to break in the new element. You're now readly to bake.
If you don't have a volt meter, turn stove/oven "ON" with lights indicating that stove/oven is ON, turn circuit breaker off and watch indicator lights go "OFF" when circuit breaker is tripped.

turn off electric breaker, unscrew the 2 screws unplug the 2 ends replace old element with new repeat previous steps but unfortunately the control panel was also failing and that item has been discontinued.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

ordered new broiler pan

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine