99531 ((1988)) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great

Removed the oven racks....

Removed the two screws holding element in place...

Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!

First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. removed each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well

First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.

It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.

One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.

Replacement was relatively easy. Oven door was pulled off hinges after removing 2 mounting screws nearest the hinges. After shutting off power at the breaker, screws (2 each) holding elements were removed. Elements were pulled into oven ~ 4 inches exposing wiring and clips. The clips pulled free with just a little wiggling by hand and were easily pushed back on by hand. Then reverse to finish.

Took out the old drip bowls and replaced with new bowls.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I removed the element and then the drain pan and replaced with the new correct pans. I replaced the element and all was well.

Pull unit away from wall.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.

Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.

It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.