91136756791 Kenmore Range - Instructions

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

I received a defective part from PartsSelect.com. After contacting their Customer Service, they promptly replaced the part for no charge at all. I am very, very pleased with PartsSelect.com and recommend them to all "home mechanics".

The bowl was replaced by removing two screws, removing the igniter wire, clip, and igniter. Reverse to re-assemble. I would recommend replacing the gasket at the same time.

Real simple to do. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl and disconnect the electric wire. Obviously first pull the power cord to prevent being shocked.
Re-attach the power cord and and screw the bowl tight. Plug in the power cord.

Kenmore Gas Oven. Replaced cracked grates with 4 new exact replacements. On the clock plate (control panel) removed 4 screws on bottom of from panel. (over door must be opened to remove screws) Remove 8 screws on top of range cooking surface in order to lift up cooking surface. Once lifted remove 2 more screws to the front panel. Remove 2 smaller screws which hold clock to front panel. Replace clock plate. While the the front and top panel are apart it is a great time to give it a though cleaning.

the broiler would light once in awhile and it appeared that the igniter was working. But it wouldn't let enough current through to open the gas valve. The nuts holding it on broke off but drilling them out and replacing with two sheet metal screws worked ok. Don't know how that will hold up to the heat though. The wiring was easy to connect ( wire nuts) but the lead wires from the stove are not that long so all the operation had to be done way in the back of the oven enclosure.

Easy, just remove two top screws, unplug the igniter wire and then do it in reverse. Your're done in less than 15min.

replaced drip bowl removed 2 screws, removed wire from igniter. and could have used a new gasket but I used some rope caulking to cushion the pan with the glass top which worked very very well.

Removed two screws holding drip bowl in place. Removed spring clip holding igniter to drip bowl and removed igniter. Installed igniter to new drip bowl and installed drip bowl to cook top. Took less than 5 minutes.

First off,I was shocked and pleased at how quickly the parts were speed, next day! I did have to return two bowls and order the correct ones only because it was not clear which bowls were needed and the GE manual had no specifications. The small bowl was easy enough to discern, the medium and large were the challenge. The middle opening on both bowls is the same. I failed to notice on the plates and online that the spark emitter, (I do not recall the correct teen), is closer to the middle opening. After receiving the correct bowls, our gas range looks like new.

Cut off power to the cook top and confirm that power is actually off. In my case, this involved turning off a cicuit breaker. Remove all burner control knobs by pulling straight up. Lift off all grates, burner caps and burner heads. Remove two phillips head screws from each burner bowl. Pry each burner bowl up and unhook the ignitor wire. I labeled the wires to make sure I got them hooked back up right. Remove the four burner bowls by lifting them off. Make sure you remember where each goes so you can reinstall them in the right places. Pry up the glass cooktop and lift it off. I took the cooktop ouside and gave it a good cleaning. This plus cleaning around the cooktop and cleaning the burner bowls is what took most the time. Lift the defective switch off and disconnect the two wires. Align the flat in the new switch to the off position. Reconnect the wires and install the new switch on the valve stem. Reinstall the cook top. Reinstall the burner bowls making sure to reconnect the ignitor wires. Reinstall the burner heads, burner caps, grates and knobs. Turn the power back on and make sure everything works correctly.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

Two screws remove the burner bowl. There is an electric push-on connector for the igniter which is easy to pull off. Remove the igniter retaining clip by pushing it off the igniter with a screwdriver or pulling it off with a pliers. Note that I replaced a Large Burner Drip Bowl and a Small Burner Drip Bowl. THEY ARE THE SAME SIZE. The large and small designation refers to the size of the gas diffuser and ceramic cap. The size difference requires that the hole in the bowl for the igniter be in a different place.

Ok - I LOVE THIS COMPANY!! When I read the other blogs I was a little confused. Ok first choosing the right drip pan for my gas stovetop was a little confusing because there was a cheaper one that look just like mine. I didn't have the model number - so I WOULD have guessed on it. Later I took my stovetop apart and found model number. Found that MY model required the more expensive drip pans. I think this will help people.... (1) Both type of drip pans looked just alike, but the space between the ignitor and the flame was different. The closer one wouldn't have worked. (2) They were categorized as small medium and large drip pans. BUT - they all had the same dimension: 9 inches. The difference is made in the flame area. My stove top has one small flame area, one large and two mediums, that's how you determine which size you need. (3) The ignitor, when you take it off - nothing shows whether the little white ignitor breaks apart or not, and HOW you get it out. Once you remove the little wire holding it to the drippan, don't try to pull apart the white ignitor, it doesn't come apart. Mine had rusty residue attaached, making it hard to pull through. But when I removed the crusty stuff the white thing popped through the hole. (I called a REP to see if the white thing tore apart or not and they weren't sure. So maybe this will help some other woman who is wondering.) This was ABSOLUTELY the easiest and most cost effective way to have a nearly BRAND NEW stove top. And I'm pleased with myself that I did it without any help.

Removed two small screws, removed old bowl, placed new bowl, replaced screws.

On a scale of 1-10 (1 being the lowest level of difficulty), this was clearly a 1. Tools needed are a plillips' head and flat head screwdrivers. First, lift off Burner Cap and Burner Head. Then, raise existing drip bowl (plenty excess wiring), and use flat screwdriver to release retainer clip. Now, disconnect wire attached to spark electrode (igniter) for removal. Unless replacing it, also remove the rubber gasket at base of old drip bowl for reuse (take the opportunity to clean throughly around drip pan base). Reverse procedure, and check igniter. Your job is complete, and you just saved the cost of a service call, and paid less than half the price of retail for genuine replacement parts. As a side note, I received the parts from PartsSelect in less than 24 hours. The customer reviews will also fully reassure you that you are more than capable of making the simple replacement.