91195582992 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mike from Hatfield, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner didn't go on
Turned off juice
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from Kidder, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10086
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Hole in gasket
I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.
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- Customer:
- Howard from LEXINGTON, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broiler coil burnt out
It was just a matter of removing 5 screws that attached the broiler coil to oven top. Then carefully removing coil so as not to cause wires attached to fall into the back of the oven. Needed an extra pair of hands to hold coil while i guided the wires back thru the opening. All that was left to do was to secure the broiler coil to oven. All completed in less then 30 mins. A lot easier then originally thought. And, a lot cheaper then getting a repair person to do the job.
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- Customer:
- Jerry L from Palmetto, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Small burner of Dual Burner no longer would work.
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
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- Customer:
- Minnie from hurdle mills, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB07X42966
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
just want new parts
very easy and clean.
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- Customer:
- Robert from PAWTUCKET, RI
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10027
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Top glass top burner wasn’t working
I first ordered the wrong part and had to call customer service. They handled the return and ordered the new piece beautifully!! The installation was really simple. Once I took out two screws holding the top down, I removed three clips holding the burner on then switched out the electrical leads. Put everything back and it worked perfectly!!
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- Customer:
- Paul from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10086
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced oven door gasket
Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Norborne, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner burned out
Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!
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- Customer:
- Dean from Elkton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burned out
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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- Customer:
- Roger from ALPENA, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB02T10037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
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- Customer:
- Michael from BAY CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
inner element not working
opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- SHARON from EDMOND, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Previous owner left racks in during self clean
Took the old racks out andcslipped the new ones in
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- Customer:
- Alex R from Randoff, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
temperature sensor went
Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Gravette, AR
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Small element in center burned into(inoperative
1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Cinnaminson, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The center element of the 2-stage electric burner failed.
The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.
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