9114678892 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) discovering a burnt spot in the element sent me searching for a new one. I couldn't find any locally, so I continued my search to the internet. This is when I came in contact with PartsSelect.com .
They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks

Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR UNTIL THE RANGE IS UNPLUGGED AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS OFF!!!!!!

Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the element to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!

After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.

I turned off the breaker to the range. I removed 5 screws holding the control knob carriage. I loosened the 2 screws that hold the control knob to the carriage. I removed each wire 1 at a time from the old control knob and hooked them up to the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned on the breaker.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

This was so easy I should be a repairman! Turned off power at the breaker, used socket to unscrew two hex head screws, pulled out element slowly from the back of oven wall - enough to expose the wires about 3". Used pliers to remove clips from terminals, put new element in, pushed on new terminal clips, fed wires and terminals back through the two holes, replaced the hex head screws, turned breaker on and wallah! My wife was happy! That's a good thing.

Snapped in the clip

I was able to remove the heating element but in the process one of the wires fell behind the back wall of the oven so I needed a little help getting it out. It was my first time working with electricity. If this didn't happen the repair would have been quit easy. The instructions were great.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D

First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and from the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.

I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.



By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.

i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased