1037297810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

used nut driver to remove old module and 10 minutes the cooktop was back in operation

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes

It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and quick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.

Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.

Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the cover plate and storage drawer.

Using the crescent wrench, I first removed the bolt holding the cover plate that separates the wiring from the broiler section of the oven.

Then I removed the wire nuts that connected the wires from the igniter to the wires from the oven.

Then I removed the two screws that attached the igniter to the oven.

I then reversed the process, first attaching the igniter to the oven, then connecting the wires from the igniter to those from the oven using the wire nuts. Finally, I replaced the cover plate on the assembly.

The primary difficulty with the process was the small space to work in. One has to reach to the back of the broiler area to remove the bolt, screws and wire nuts. Some of these operations require two hands, and there's no room for both arms in this area.

However, that said, this is the third time we've replaced the igniter. It seems that it only lasts about 4 years before it needs to be replaced. It's not all that hard to do.

well,as with any repair that looks easy,i had to do a little more than what i had originally anticpated.
i was hoping for an access panel to the igniter,but after removing the lower drawer,there was only the heat shields and pans,about 20 screws later i got
to the igniter and spliced it in place,then reassembled it without too much fuss -now my 93 year old friend can bake her pecan pies for charity that is her favorite hobby-thanks

The repair did not go well for the oven igniter. After I unfastened the defective igniter from the mount I tried to gently pull the ceramic wire connectors through the opening in the back of the oven. I pulled too hard and the wire connectors became disconnected and only the wires from the ingiter came through the opening. Now the wiring is trapped on the other side of the oven wall and I can't pull the wire through the opening (the oven is a wall unit). The wiring is actually also threaded through a second wall at the back of the oven and the wiring is trapped behind the second wall. I would need a long skinny hook to try to pry the wire from behind the second wall. I may need to call a professional after all. Jiggling the wires a bit in addition to gentle pulling may have worked, I don't know.

followed peoples advices and all went very smooth. make sure to undo bracket from behind bottom drawer as it will make your life much easier.