36291201000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Pull out the range. Pull out the electric plug. Unfasten the back panel. Raise the range top. Replace the terminal block in exactly the same position as the old one. Put everything back.

This is the third time I have replaced it so it is very easy now. This time I spent a little more time making sure the burner element prongs were just just like the others. Must have been a little loose in the block.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

I first unpluged the stove then removed the 6" element then I removed the back panel on the stove located the wires that went to that element unplugged them and removed the block then fished the wires through for new terminal block installed in terminal block bracket then pluged in wires put element in place put back panel back in place plugged stove checkout heat on element good to go 20 min

Since the unit is a drop-in range I had to remove the heat shield/drip plate to thread the wires from the control button to the receptable. The replacement part wires were to short to make the connection so I have to use some of the wiring from the old receptable to make the connection. That is the reason for using the wire cutter and connecters.

Disconnected power supply to range, pull top back metal cover, pull wires from burner on/off switch,and removed one screw that holds block in place. Installed new terminal block by placing screw back on block & placing wires back on the on/off switch.

Replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit was very easy.

1. Pull the stove from the wall a little so you can have space to work. I unplug the stove from lthe 220 outlet. Then remove the Surface Burner element.

2. Then we removed the back pannel from the stove by removing the screws with a nut driver. Only four screws to remove.

3. Once the pannel was removed. I Unpluged the wires from the stove pannel. Being careful not to damage the plug in. There were only two wires to unplug. So trace the wires to make sure you are unpluging the correct one.

4. Lift the top up on the stove and unscrewed the Terminal Block from the top of stove. We only have one screw there.

5. Pull the Terminal Block and wires out and replace with the new Terminal Block, making sure the wires were feed along the side under the top of stove so they can not be damaged. Plug in wires and replace pannel.

The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

as described on video,with no problems,very helpful

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

Replaced clock/timer from Part Select. Direct replacement and new unit works great.

replace element

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Replace the sucket for the heating element.