79073039313 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I did the repair with the instructions from parts select
It was very self explationatry
Thank you parts select
I saved at least $400.

Disassembled inside of oven. Slid away from wall opened back replaced safety valve and igniter. Safety valve was good changed only because it was apart. Resemble and test sat. Kept old safety valve for emergency spare.

I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

The Appliance light was installed in a wood burning oven used by a commercial bakery. The entirely masonry oven is used to cook a specialty product with origins in Brazil.
We first drilled a 11-3/4 hole from the inside of the oven starting at the fire brick that passed through the concrete block outer shell of the oven to accommodate the insulated wiring to the on/off switch outside the oven. Then we commissioned a special steel cowling to enclose the the back and sides of the lamp so that the lamp faced down, instead of out and the back of the fixture was protected. The back of the lamp was attached to the insulated switch wires, then the custom lamp housing with filled with fire proof insulation. The entire lamp housing was then attached to the upper face of the masonry wall with 1/4" x 4" masonry bolt head screws. This type of installation was required because the oven overall size of 6' tall x 4' wide X 4' ID dimensions required a heat resistant light to illuminate 15 shelves of product being produced.
The oven lamp purchased works perfectly for the new oven. By the way, the oven does not have a brand, as it was created as a one of a kind, the brand of the oven lamp was taken from a Kenmore Gas Range.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

Replaced uper orifice n adjusted oven as instructed.

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

Once I confirmed that there was 120v service to the range (even the oven light worked) it was clear the the board had been fried. It is a simple matter to remove the rear cover plate from the range,. The control board is held by 4 screws, and a single connector for power and all controls of the range (as well as the clock). Removed the old one and installed the replacement. All done.