79073778100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).

I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.

After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.

Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.

First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.

To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).

Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.

I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.

To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.

If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.

I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.

I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.

The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).

Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).

If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.

Hope this helps.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Unplug the range, remove racks. Remove 2 screws from the bottom back corners ( this was the hardest part. I used a stubby screwdriver, but a longer one would be better. They are fairly long screws). Remove oven bottom, lifting from the rear. Remove burner cover. Bottom left corner is a triangle cover. Remove this too. Remove the 2 screws holding the old igniter in place. The igniter unplugs easily. ( I used pliers, the plug has a clip, and pliers grip better.) Install new igniter ( it only fits in one way ) reinstall mounting screws and covers. Replace oven bottom. (I didn't replace the 2 screws. The bottom sits solidly, and they are a bit of a pain.) Plug in, set clock, test for oven to fire up.

The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)

Disconnect power supply,reemove upper back panel,pop otut old switch,disconnect it ,connect new switch ,snap in place ,screw uppper back panel back in place,reconnect range power supply.

switch out wires on spark module same burner would not lite
oder burner instead of igniter for four dollars more for new burner and igniter it made sense. Changed burner out burner works
thanks
Ron

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

1. Unplug the range to ensure there is no electricity running through the range. The repair can be done with the propane/gas line still connected.

2. If possible, remove the storage drawer for ease of access.

3. Remove the screw from the metal plate in the left corner of the oven. Detach the end of the igniter cord that you find plugged in there.

4. Remove the two screws that hold the igniter in place. The old igniter should fall to the bottom of the range.

5. Take a picture of the two other cord connections that run into the middle of the back wall. This will come in handy for reference when you install the new igniter.

6. Route the longer extension of the new igniter cord through the hole in the metal corner plate, attach the cord, and put the screw back in to secure the corner plate.

7. Affix the new igniter to the same spot the old one had been in, using the two screws from step 4.

8. Plug in the two shorter cord extensions, using the photo from step 5 if necessary.

9. Reattach the drawer if necessary and plug the range back in.

10. Set the clock, then set the oven to a desired temperature to begin heating. If the repair was successful, the igniter will light the gas piped into the range, and you will see a ring of flame.

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Open oven door and remove metal splash plate on bottom of oven by removing two screws in back.
Remove heat distribution plate (metal) by unscrewing a single nut with pliers.
Now the ignitor is visible. Unscrew old ignitor by backing off two screws.
Detach the wires and reattach to new ignitor. (a cover plate may have to unbolt from the left back corner to get at one of the wiring connections.)
Reattach new ignitor and then flame distribution plate.
Put on splash cover and tighten back screws.
Test oven, it should light within 1 minute.
All is done.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.