79091329211 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.

I followed the Parts Select Video that showed replacing an identical switch. Mine were another brand & style with different color wires. I took a picture of 1 to keep track of the wiring and removed it. I saw that the terminals were marked P, H1, H2, L1, & L2 so I put the wire from the same terminal onto the Parts Select switches & they work just fine now. The parts I got from you are heavier and a much better quality than the original equipment. I would also like to say that I was amazed at how fast this order was shipped, and the washer pump was a piece of cake thanks to your video.

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!

Removed 2 screws from rear of panel and dropped new panel in. Re-installed screws. Oven like new again. Aluminum foil was burning and emitting foul odor when oven was on.

After making sure it was the switches themselves not the burners that were the problem, it was easy locating the exact parts I needed on PartSelect and the shipment arrived in a timely manner. I had to replace two out of four switches. Using a screwdriver, I detached the display pannel and removed the faulty switches. Then I disconnected the old wires and attached them to the new switches, one at a time. Closed everything up and the "new" range works great!

Replaced the oven probe because a no heat problem. also had to replace the oven control. That was a bit expensive but still saved me hundreds not calling a serviceman. By the way, it works like new.....

I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on the new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!

Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to call a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.

removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine

un bolted the 6 nut driver heads found probe wire un pluged it 1/4 turn from lock it was in and pull out replace slide in new probe 1/4 turn to lock it in place replace nut driver self tappers and test simple!!

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

I removed two screws and lifted out the ruined bottom. I set the new bottom in, but could not get the screws lined up so left them out. The bottom is heavy enough, it is not going anywhere. I am very grateful the part was available.