79073033310 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Watched a half dozen You Tube Videos before I saw the Exact one-Submitted by a Woman-Super Easy-Had the Exact Part from this site!

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

Once I confirmed that there was 120v service to the range (even the oven light worked) it was clear the the board had been fried. It is a simple matter to remove the rear cover plate from the range,. The control board is held by 4 screws, and a single connector for power and all controls of the range (as well as the clock). Removed the old one and installed the replacement. All done.

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

The Appliance light was installed in a wood burning oven used by a commercial bakery. The entirely masonry oven is used to cook a specialty product with origins in Brazil.
We first drilled a 11-3/4 hole from the inside of the oven starting at the fire brick that passed through the concrete block outer shell of the oven to accommodate the insulated wiring to the on/off switch outside the oven. Then we commissioned a special steel cowling to enclose the the back and sides of the lamp so that the lamp faced down, instead of out and the back of the fixture was protected. The back of the lamp was attached to the insulated switch wires, then the custom lamp housing with filled with fire proof insulation. The entire lamp housing was then attached to the upper face of the masonry wall with 1/4" x 4" masonry bolt head screws. This type of installation was required because the oven overall size of 6' tall x 4' wide X 4' ID dimensions required a heat resistant light to illuminate 15 shelves of product being produced.
The oven lamp purchased works perfectly for the new oven. By the way, the oven does not have a brand, as it was created as a one of a kind, the brand of the oven lamp was taken from a Kenmore Gas Range.

Replaced uper orifice n adjusted oven as instructed.

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Did just want to comment on the customer service. It was great. The easiest to order that I have ever dealt with. Received prompt attention to the order and processing the same. JUST GREAT> Thanks

Removed the old oven racks and put in the new ones.

open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.

Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

replaced temp probe per your suggestion. No improvement! checked both heating elements with ohm meter. OK Next suggestion was replace circuit boards. Bought new range for less than cost of 2 oven/range control boards.