79070502010 Kenmore Range - Instructions

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

replaced temp probe per your suggestion. No improvement! checked both heating elements with ohm meter. OK Next suggestion was replace circuit boards. Bought new range for less than cost of 2 oven/range control boards.

I pulled the top cover from inside the oven off and unscrewed 2 screws to remove the heat plate. After i unplugged the adapter for the old ignitor apart and unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws that hole the ignitor to the plate. i replaced with the new ignitor, screwed back in place , plugged the 2 wires and the adaptor plug in and i was done , in less that 30 mins.. I also saved $180 (Sears $260) on this do it yourself repair.. Thanks PartSelect for having the part in stock.... R Diaz (Bklyn N.Y.)

Removed the old oven racks and put in the new ones.

The gasket just snapped in place. The first one I ordered was, my fault, the wrong one and I returned it and got the correct one two days later.

Very easy--just had to drill new holes for the clips because the are already pre set in the rubber gasket

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.

Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.

Did just want to comment on the customer service. It was great. The easiest to order that I have ever dealt with. Received prompt attention to the order and processing the same. JUST GREAT> Thanks

I was replacing a range oven hood, so I pulled the oven away from the wall but left it plugged in. I removed the old oven hood, which had an exhaust pipe that was still mounted through the cupboard. While I was preparing the new oven hood the exhaust pipe fell out of the cupboard and cut the oven wire in half. I was able to find the part number on the existing cord and looked up on line. I ordered the part using 3-5 business days and it showed up in 2 days. I was able to attach the new cord, which had an easy clip plug, and secure back to the stove. Very easy and very inexpensive to do.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.