79090820409 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Demoris from GOLDSBORO, NC
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
element burnt out
purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.
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Burners getting too hot.
Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.
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- Customer:
- Louis from Beloit, WI
- Parts Used:
- 5303935058
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from MADISON HTS, VA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from LANOKA HARBOR, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 318372210, 5303935058
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I damaged surface element left kettle on without water in it
The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.
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- Customer:
- Dave from BRISTOL, VA
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The oven bake element developed a hot spot which failed shortly after the hot spot developed.
Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.
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- Customer:
- Rosemary from St. Albans, ME
- Parts Used:
- 316048413
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Couldn't find replacement trays locally. Part Select was very helpful and prompt in shipping.
Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.
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- Customer:
- cynthia from SEBRING, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Bottom burner wouldn’t heat
Watched the video
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- Customer:
- James from PAINESVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old racks had melted plastic on them.
It was a replace racks not repair. No problem
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from Elmira, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
replacing oven racks
The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)
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Coroded drip pans
Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from Marengo, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
oven baking element burnt into
my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great
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- Customer:
- Robert from SEEKONK, MA
- Parts Used:
- 316442300
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
surface element burned out
Simple Just plugged it in !
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from COTTONDALE, AL
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Bake element went out
The broil element and range were both working so I removed the bake element to test for continuity. Use a 1/4” socket or wrench to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear wall of the inside of the oven. Pull the ends of the element out of their recesses taking care not to lose a wire inside the back panel of the oven. Pull the wires off the element ends. You should be able to do this by hand; use a flathead screwdriver for a little prying if necessary. Visually inspect the element for physical damage. If you don’t see any, test the element with an ohmmeter or multimeter. If it reads anything other than 0 ohms (continuity), your element is defective. Installation process is reverse of removal.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Swanville, ME
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat
Pulled stove away from wall and unplug .Removed grates for better access. Unscewed element scews removed element & tested for continuity.there was none element is bad . Replaced with new one . Time about 20 minutes.
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