79077478792 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Screw the handle, that it...

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

Relatively easy to install once you get to the item.

Removed the front panel, top panel, original clock timer.
(15+ screws)
The leads were stuck and had to be pried out with a knife. As I removed one lead I inserted it into the same on the new panel.((eight leads various colors.)
One connector to remove and insert into new panel.
Done!!!! It worked!!! EXCEPT;
After putting it all together I discovered that the push buttons were not included with the unit. I had to pry out the old ones and reuse them on the new timer.

If it hadn't been for the push buttons the whole job would have taken about an hour.

Oh, just a reminder, turn off the eletricity. I forgot to and lit up a bit.

I had to remove the whole back of the stove in order to gain access to the timer which is housed on the top console of the stove. There was 8 different leads and a wiring harness to keep track of. I had a friend help and after a good two hours we finally got it. I was never able to remove the top console so had to resort to a bit of prying to gain access to all of the screws. The manufacture did not make this an easy project. The part was rather expensive but with some thought and patients I now have a clock timer with a bright LED display with only one screw left over.

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Remove oven racks and bottom oven panel cover.Removed old igniter.one screw was stripped so that slowed me down quite a bit! Used a small vise grip tool to remove screw! installed new ignighter,cut existing wires; spliced in new wires( be sure to unplug appliance) tested ok. Reassembled.

I removed the screws holding the element in place. Then I screwed in the new part. No problem at all.

I bought and paid for 4 drip pans for my Tappan stove. I received 4 metal ones. With your authorization I returned them,
paying $18.00 postage. Since it was your mistake a believe you should reimburse me for that expense.

Mary Lee
(703)578-1942

I followed Ryan's instructions and had no problem following them. HOWEVER, I ENCOUNTERED A MAJOR PROBLEM when I put it all back together: the control buttons wouldn't work. I took it apart again and examined the old one, which had plastic pins in the holes which the buttons were supposed to push. The new part didn't have the pins. I wanted to remove the pins from the old part and put them in the new one. This was difficult, and I broke the first one when I removed it. (I ended up super-gluing it together successfully.) In order to remove the other pins, I pried and pinched with needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic collar around the pin, then the pin came out easily and could be inserted in the new part, pushing hard until it clicked in place. Then when I put everything together it worked fine.

Unpluged unit then using a flat screwdriver pride out old switch,pull off wires replace on new switch & push new switch in place. Repluged unit reset clock. Done!

Lifted the drawer out from the oven and removed top and bottom screws. Replaced the handle and tightened the screws.