79093012310 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)

Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.

Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!

Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.