9117278813 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Remove oven door from hinges, by pulling it straight up and off, (like you would do for closer access to clean inside). Remove the storage drawer. Lift up and away off the track, (like a file cabinet drawer). With the drawer out and away, you can see how the springs are easily detached from each hinge. Note the location of where the springs attach to the hinges, and bottom of stove. Remove each spring. Three screws on each side hold the hinges on. Unscrew, and set them aside. (The new hinges did not have new screws in package.) Place new hinge in place. Reinstall in reverse of disassembly. If any part of the door or face of the stove (where hinges mount) was bent slightly due to forcing door open, reform with light hammer taps and C-clamps. Enjoy for ANOTHER 10+ years, because it's a GE Profile Stove : )

Called in and talked to someone and he look yup what he thought was correct but after i got them theywere wrong so i sent them back for a full refund minus 9.90 freight. I still need to figure out what i need for my 27 inch wall oven. Please help. Thanks

REMOVED DOOR TO OVEN
REMOVED HINGE [3 SCREWS]
REMOVED BOTTOM DRAW
UNHOOKED SPRING FROM LEFT SIDE ATTACHED TO HINGE
PULL OUT DEFECTIVE HINGE
REPLACE WITH NEW HINGE AND SCREWS
REHOOK SPRING TO HINGE & REPLACE DOOR
COMPLETE

FOLLOW VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTS SELECT

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

Removed door from Oven.
removed screws from several components comprising the door and separated pieces.
Removed broken glass.
Prior to putting back together I took advantage of the convenience and used oven cleaner to clean inner portion of door. Installed new glass.
Reassembled door.

My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.