3627536192 Kenmore Range - Instructions

bought a new igniter and fuel control regulator & changed both. had to adjust regulator as it was shipped set up for natural gas according to a friend in the gas business.was a little disappointed it was not told to me in the instructions to change the regulator as flames was shooting all over the place. but it was a simple fix once u know & thank you for ur prompt service

Made an educated guess that the problem was a bad oven igniter. Although the malfunctioning igniter still glowed red hot, it was not hot enough to open gas flow to the burner. USEFUL TIP: the new igniter's plug was not a smooth fit with the oven's plug - I somewhat forced them together and sure enough - no ignition. So, I cut the plug off the old igniter, spliced it on the new one (fortunately, ceramic wire nuts were included by PartSelect), and everything connected up and worked beautifully. After that it was just a matter of screwing the oven floor panels back in, and a few hundred $$ were saved for under an hour's work.

I used the video to do the part removal and install. The video was perfect for what I needed. The only thing that was an issue was the connectors. I had to use the connector off the old igniter.

The thing that made my repair a bit difficult was that the new igniter electrical wires would not snap into the wire fitting on the stove. When I called Part Select service number they said that I needed to cut the wire fitting off the new igniter and the stove wires and use the 2 porcelain connectors to connect the wires. Good thing I had wire strippers and knew how to use them.

I was an easy fix on my unit due to my wiring access. All I needed to do was slide to all the internal racks and remove the cover at the bottom on the over. To access my wiring I removed the Broiler draw and then I was able to unplug the A/C 110 volt plug. Then I could see the two wire plug for the Igniter, so discounted that and removed the two screws holding the Igniter, remove it. Then placed the new one in place of the old one, installed the two screws and plugged in the Igniter plug. I then re-assembled the oven and plugged the A/C 110 volt plug and turned on the over to bake at 350 degrees and it worked perfectly.

Overall the repair wasn't all that difficult. . . . . Other than in my situation the new part comes with a "female" modular plug, and my range has a "female" reciever plug. These of course won't connect. I had to cut both mod plugs off, strip both ends of each wire, and wire wrap using the porcelain wire wrap caps that came with my part. This repair would have been much more difficult had the porcelain wire wraps not been included. The "fine print" does tell you that you may have to do this "step" but I didn't read that the first time I tried to do the repair. Fortunately after re-reading the paperwork I read what had to be done in my situation. This simply lenghtened the time involved and added a couple steps. You need to be comfortable stripping wires in order to complete the repair in this manner. Do not use plastic nut wire wraps. . . . . This area, though protected can still heat up. Plastic and higher heat are not a good combination. The plastic wire wrap could melt. Use (if they are included) the porcelean wraps or go buy them if you need to.

We put the new part in & the oven came on fine but then it would not shut off. We had to finally turn it off at the propane source. We had to go out and purchase a new stove.

remove racks-remove heat tray in bottom of oven-cut wires-use ceramic wire nuts (supplied) to reconnect--saved over $140.00 from price quoted by repairman

watch the video. Do the repair. What could be easier. Bake some cookies just for a test.. I did it twice just to be sure. Thank you partselect. Rite part, rite price, fast shipping, arrived next day...............

First I went online and checked out the video to see if I could do it. It was really easier than the video showed because my oven was a little different than the one shown. I did it like the video showed me. I love your website and videos will be a return customer.

I thought it was the gas valve at first, but a commenter on your site suggested replacing the igniter first, since gas valves tend to be long lived.I removed the oven floor and the broiler drawer. I then unplugged the old igniter and removed it from the burner. I replaced it with the new one reversing the process, turned the oven on to 250 degrees and in about 20 seconds, voila, just like new. Replaced the broiler drawer and the oven floor and have had perfect service since. Thanks,Adam

The PartSelect on-line problem description and solution matched my problem so closely that I had to give their solution a try. Just a few modifications to the PartSelect on-line video were all that was needed. The only significant difference is that I didn't wear a white shirt;-) I have never had an on-line video more closely mirror exactly what my job required. I probably saved $150, and, in doing the repair myself, I learned details about the range construction and design that may aid with diagnosing and solving future problems.

I pulled out the oven racks and bottom tray and then removed the heat shields and old ignitor. The hard part was reaching the plug to disconnect the old part and reconnect the new one.I had to pull the stove out and get it from the back.Then everything was good as new.

Removed door by partially opening and pulling up. Removed racks out and undid two screws so bottom panel could be removed. Took out bottom drawer- there are tabs to push on in the track.... Unplugged old igniter. Unscrewed igniter and reversed process. Replacing screws requires some patience....

replaced igniter/replacement part was identical/remove door, just open and lift off, remove oven shelf's, broiler and broiler draw/2 bolts on bottom back oven floor release the floor panel, lift up on back, slide forward/2 bolts release the igniter from the burner tube/only attaches on one side of igniter/have to reach in back of stove bottom opening to release the old igniter wire feed at the plastic connector clip/used needle nose plier to hold stove end of clip to release/also removed right side small back rear cover panel(2 bolts)inside oven/plastic clip end was hard to fish through the gas tube and the back of the oven, pretty tight/pushed thru with screwdriver/can also pry the back oven wall back a bit to get the new one through the same path, little opening in the bottom back, then go back to the back of the stove opening and re-connect plastic clip connector from the ignitor wire to oven feed...