91146564010 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.

First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the new one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel and installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

I just follow Steve's Installation Vidio. My range works.
Thanks Steve

Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

twisted it in place

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.