36275296790 Kenmore Range - Instructions

To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."

Removed the door. Then, removed the oven floor panel, removed the 2 screws holding the igniter. Cut the wire leads from the old igniter, stripped and connected the new wire leads to the old using ceramic wire nuts (included with part). Connected igniter to mounting bracket using original screws. Re-plugged in range and checked the new igniter for lighting. OK on first try, so replace oven floor and tighten holding screws. Then replace door. Tried out oven on a Red Baron Pepperoni pizza. Excellente!

First I turned the power off going to the oven, safety first. Then I removed the broiler drawer from the oven so I could remove the bottom plate, that gave me easy access to the wires and igniter. I took removed the two screws holding the igniter in place, then removed the wire nuts from the wires. I then reversed the procedure. This took care of my problem, the oven lights easily now.

Replaced igniter in oven, Removed 2 screws in oven floor and removed floor panel. Removed 3 screws to remove the whole flame pipe assy. Disconnected 2 connectors on the ignition assy. Replaced ignition assy. with the cheapest ignition assy. spliced the 2 wires with the connectors of the old assy. using the supplied ceramic wire nuts and re assembled. Part from dealer was $89.00 part from here was $39.00

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

removed lower cover off of buner area, then removed cover where igniter wires connected to circuite, removed two screws holding igniter in place, cut and spliced new igniter to old push in fasteners of old igniter, reinstalled igniter, and plugged in new igniter, reinstalled covers and panels, turned on unit and bingo back to normal and as good as new

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had to cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!

I put it in the same way tuck it out

This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).

My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.

The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)

TL;DR:

-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.

Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.

Easy

First of all I had to find the right part from Partselect, which was very easy, delivery was fantastically fast even tho I didn`t order special delivery. After reading installation suggestions on the website, it was simple, open the top, disconnect the burners, removed the thermo from the inside. The only hard part was threading the sensor through the correct hole. I had to remove a couple of cover plates to see where the hole was. Put it back together, lit the oven and the temps were correct, as shown by an oven thermometer.