9113658610 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I open the oven, then pulled out the racks. I went on to remove the bottom pan by removing 2 screws from the back.. I then removed the broiler burner and disconnected the wires from the relay. I unscrewed the igniter and replaced it. I stripped the wires and connected the old connectors using the ceramic wire nuts. I put the burner back in place and connected the wiring.. I then trested the unit to make sure it worked . . .it did. I replaced the bottom pan and racks and once again made sure everything was working right.

Job done.

Part arrived day before thanksgiving bent old igniter back and forth till broke off then easily took out screws.Cut and strip old wire, screw on new ignighter this was tough to get a wrench on with the positioning but after connecting those wires and slappin the rest of the oven back together one turn of the temp knob told me thanksgiving was going to happen Thanks to part select I was lookin like a hero!

I removed the oven door, racks, and oven floor. That was easy, the floor had two thumb screws and one phillips/hex screw. I removed the lower drawer and the 2 covers above the drawer. The igniter was held in place by two phillips/hex screws. Had to manuver a bit to get the right angle to remove the screws. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE REPAIR, when you cut the two wires to remove the old igniter, cut them off as close to the old igniter module as possible. On my stove one of the wires on the new igniter was about an inch too short and I had to add a section of wire. Overall the whole job was easy. Keep track of screws as you remove them.

I took out the racks, unscrewed the bottom cover, removed the bottom drawer, cut the leads for the igniter, removed the bad one, had a little difficulty installing the new one, the screws were a little longer than the old ones, and were a little hard to get at, rewired the the leads, and put everything back, and started it up and it worked great!

I removed the oven burner while the igniter attached. put unit on my bench and changed the igniter and reinstalled the burner and reattached the wires to the supply terminals. Tested the unit and it lite up ok.

i removed the oven door and then the lower panel.the two screws holding the igniter were hard to access, so i removed the gas rail.this made the job much easier. the advice from other people on this website was very helpful and made the repair much easier.just remember to shutoff both the electric and gas supply.

I first checked the power by pushing oven button, I heard the relay make a sound " CLICK" ,I then knew it wasnt the power .I then removed the oven racks and then I removed the the two screws holding the pan in place. I hit the power button and noticed the ignitor did not glow as it should.I ordered the part and replaced it and had frozen pizza 20 minutes later.

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

1/4 inch nut driver & 9/16 open end to take the igniter off and pull the wires out of the back of the oven. Then take the wire nuts off and install the new igniter . Shove the wire nuts back in the hole. Reinstall the burner and covers. Total time is about a half hour no special skills needed. easy

removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?

I took the old igniter out and replaced it with a new one.

Removed oven racks
Remove oven bottom
Remove 2 screws holding the glow coil onto the burner
Install the new glow coil with the furnished screws
Reinstalled the 2 wires back where you took them off

Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.

The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.