9117398811 Kenmore Range - Instructions

The part arrived on timed and fit perfect. The repaired took 1/2 hour and everything works perfect. My wife thinks I am the best

Removed bottom of oven Removed bottom drawer. Removed two screws holding burner, disconnected both wires.Removed two screws holding igniter,installed new igniter reversing procedure.

Could not get at the screws holding the igniter to the buner, without removing the burner.

Removed the oven door and the bottom plate. Remove existing igniter by cutting the wire and unscrewing two small bolts. The installation of the new part is the reverse.

Remove oven door,just open slighty and pull door up no tools.Take oven draw out.Remove oven floor held by two nuts in rear.You will now see the igniter,remove two screws holding it and the one screw holding the long tube at the front.The best tool I used was 1/4 drive socket set with a 6" ext.I did'nt need a new bracket that came with the part and I cut the old igniter wires and wired in the new one because it had a special connectors.If your are a handy person,its EASY.

By myself

Followed the instructions

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

The range still worked and the broiler still worked. I noticed that the ignitor for the broiler turned on and glowed a short time after starting the broiler. I dissembled the floor of the oven (just two screws) and tried the same for the oven, but the ignitor did not start or glow. I ordered the part. It was sent withing two days. It was easy to replace and the oven has worked well since. I recommend ordering the attachment fixture as well, in that taking apart the one that held the old ignitor immediately stripped a screw and I ended up bending the fixture and having to reshape it (the small extra cost will be very well worthwhile!)

I first checked the power by pushing oven button, I heard the relay make a sound " CLICK" ,I then knew it wasnt the power .I then removed the oven racks and then I removed the the two screws holding the pan in place. I hit the power button and noticed the ignitor did not glow as it should.I ordered the part and replaced it and had frozen pizza 20 minutes later.

I removed the bottom drawer, disconnected the wires and then using the socket driver removed the screws holding the burner in place from below. I then unscrewed the bottom plate of the oven from the top so I could get to the burner. I unscrewed the one screw still holding the burner in place. Disconnected the old igniter and then cut the cables at an appropriate length so I could re-use the connectors on new igniter. Spliced together using wire nuts provided, mounted new igniter to burner, put it all back together and it fired up like it was new.