36275298790 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Rremoved the back cover, changed the wires from one ignighter to the other, removed the old ignighter, and snapped in the new one, put four screws back on cover, and pushed stove back into place, turned on all burners several times to make shure eveything worked!!!

Very easy repair! Removed lower oven pan/ plate. Removed burner tube with 3 screws, removed igniter and reversed to reinstall!

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

I used the pliers to remove the old pins, and popped then new pins in place...super simple!

Cut off the power. unscrewed the cover. fed the new thermostat inside the over and rescrewed. Feeding the line was the most time consuming finding the hole to insert it in the back of the oven.

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

ground off rear of knob 1/4" . Put on new knob and works fine. No longer have detents but can still read knob.

Simply too simple to describe. Just take out the old and put in the new!

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Threw away the old and put on the new ones.

I located the spark module at back of top panel and I switched the wires of one of the other burners to the burner that wasn't lighting. By doing that I found that part of the module wasn't operating properly.

My husband did the repair so it was very easy for me, as well as for him, he found the bad part from your parts diagram which was a great help, he changed it out in no time and so we were both very Happy. Thank you for your help. Nancy & David

Remover the old gasket and replaced it with the new. The small prongs I removed with pliers. Need to make sure that the new gasket isn't twisted when you put it on.

Fairly easy to accomplish. First unplugged the oven from the power outlet, then removed the oven racks and the bottom pan which required a screw driver to remove the two screws in the front of the pan. Then, using a socket wrench, removed the nut which holds the thin metal deflector/reflector on top of the gas burner tube. Moved the broiler drawer forward to provide room to work. Using a Phillips screw driver, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the igniter after pulling the wire connectors from the power and gas hookups. Cut the old wires about three (3) inches from the connectors (the ones farthest from the igniter). Stripped the wires and connected them to the new igniter using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Screwed the igniter back into the retaining bracket and connected the spliced wires into their oven connectors. Plugged the oven into the power supply and turn the oven control to 300 degrees, waited 10 - 15 seconds and watched the igniter glow. Shortly thereafter the gas kicked on and the oven tube ignited. Turned off the oven, reinstalled the deflector/reflector, and reinstalled the oven bottom. Put the oven racks in and plugged the oven back in.

There were 3 ? Types of black burner dishes and 3 types of burner caps. The information I collected did not hint about the different sizes. We sent back 2 caps for the proper ones. Meantime 3 of the dishes were on backorder. I installed the one dish I had. Later the 3 backorder dishes arrived. I began to install them when I discovered I needeed more than one size. I am a retired aerospace engineer. I had to use my file and hammer to fit experiences to make up for my parts ordering deficiency. The new dishes, mounting holes, were different than the one I had previously installed . So in order not to return them and wait an additional few weeks , I filed the mounting holes sufficient to be able to mount them. Then I put the next part on and discovered that it did not fit the new location of the igniter . I filed the approx 1/2" dia hole from round to a "d"configuration on 3 parts , that allowed the igniter to function in two of the new locations . The fourth and smallest burner required an additional 1/4" spacer to move the gas supply riser closer tothe igniter. The burners are all working as new. No fire hazards. My wife does not know the goofs I made. I had to use some inventive methods and I'm still her hero. I would caution all di it yourself people to become very familiar with the parts they need. They may all look the same to the novice but there are slight differences that should require replacement and could take away your hero status.