9117838710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

Removed bottom tray of oven, removed ignighter, unplug two wires.

I removed the oven door, racks, and oven floor. That was easy, the floor had two thumb screws and one phillips/hex screw. I removed the lower drawer and the 2 covers above the drawer. The igniter was held in place by two phillips/hex screws. Had to manuver a bit to get the right angle to remove the screws. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE REPAIR, when you cut the two wires to remove the old igniter, cut them off as close to the old igniter module as possible. On my stove one of the wires on the new igniter was about an inch too short and I had to add a section of wire. Overall the whole job was easy. Keep track of screws as you remove them.

I removed the oven racks and the bottom cover. The bottom cover had 2 hand tight screws. Then I had to remove the silver sheet metal plate attached with 1 screw. Then I removed the 2 small screws that held the old Igniter in place. Then removed the 2 wire nuts connected to the oven wires. The new igniter fit in the same place as the old and I attached it using the same old screws. Then I connected the wires using the new wire nuts provided in the igniter kit. After testing the new igniter by turning the oven on to 200F, i replaced all the parts i removed including the silver plate the oven bottom and the racks.

I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my plan :)

I really can't add much more to the very good instructions already posted. You will need a flashlight to see the spring -- when connected it stands vertical with one end connected to the hinge. There are 3 holes you can connect to -- I used the middle one, #2. The other end of the spring is anchored to a hole/slot in the stove frame. It is very easy to position this spring. Be careful though, there's a lot of sharp sheet metal in there. You will need a phillips head screwdriver to remove/install 3 sheet metal screws that fasten the hinge to the stove.

Removed old igniter coil by removing 2 small hex head bolts and pulling the two wire plug connectors (be sure to unplug the range). Installed new coil and connected the wires with the ceramic wire nuts supplied with the new part.

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

Basically followed the instructions that others had posted. Removed the bad oven igniter by removing the two screws securing it to the burner. Attached the new ignitor and then spliced the new wires into the old wires with the ceramic nuts that came with new igniter.

i removed the oven door and then the lower panel.the two screws holding the igniter were hard to access, so i removed the gas rail.this made the job much easier. the advice from other people on this website was very helpful and made the repair much easier.just remember to shutoff both the electric and gas supply.