9119399580 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Lifted the door off the hinges, unhooked the spring from each hinge, unscrewed 3 Phillips head screws from the face plate of each hinge and removed the hinge assemblies . Hinges went in the way they came out; easy shmeasy. Took less than 15 minutes and the door is like new.

REMOVED DOOR TO OVEN
REMOVED HINGE [3 SCREWS]
REMOVED BOTTOM DRAW
UNHOOKED SPRING FROM LEFT SIDE ATTACHED TO HINGE
PULL OUT DEFECTIVE HINGE
REPLACE WITH NEW HINGE AND SCREWS
REHOOK SPRING TO HINGE & REPLACE DOOR
COMPLETE

FOLLOW VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTS SELECT

1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside
2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside
3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside
4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside.
5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings
6. Thread new hinges into stove openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels.
7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge.
8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails
9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms

repair went fine, real easy.

The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the
right part number! It was sent the following day
(with email to let me know) The part itself was just
exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power,
removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the
broken element. The new one fit properly and works
like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me
look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you

After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

First unplugged it. Then removed everything in side for easy access. Took screws out 2 of them. Had to pull to removed elemnet . That took a while. Should have tried removing other screws or at less loosen them. It went in easy. And lift off we had red burner. hey..

Removed two screws and removed the oven elelent. One wire was not through the back of the stove. Ordered new element anyway. Slid stove out (slide-in model). Unplugged power. Removed two covers protecting wires on back of stove. Found wire for oven element. Had to cut and strip end of wire and use new blade clip. Crimped new clip to wire and inserted into oven through back of stove. Replaced covers. Plugged oven element to wires and tried out oven. WORKED ! Saved new oven element for next time. Difficulty encounted was lack of knowledge on where stove was screwed into counter-top and what size blade clip to buy. It always helps to have a dog 3" away just itching to lend a paw.

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

1)Unscrewed old baking element from wall of oven
2)Detached old baking element from wires
3)Attached new baking element to wires
4)Screwed new baking element to wall of oven
5)Turned on oven

At first thought I was taking out some insulation but. "Clamp" just slid off and was very easy to install! Finding the right size socket took longer than the repair!