79095741991 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)

Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.

I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.

Haven’t got to repair it yet. For the part has not arrived yet and I have no way to track it. For I’ve never received a tracking number

I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.

Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

Just use flat screwdriver to press on clip and just squeeze it in

After researching on what exactly to call the part, which was a front drawer glide. I found this out by watching the video. It showed me exactly what I needed and what it looked like. I run to the oven to look at the other one, to make sure thats what I needed, and it looked like the part that I needed (mind you I am a female, and not a repair person), so this video helped me out alot. When the part arrived, I knew how to take the drawer out, and easily snapped the little plastic glide in to place, and slipped the drawer back on the gliders, and it worked perfect, so proud of myself, that I done it by myself, with no help from husband. I bragged and bragged on myself with a big pat on my own back, thanks Part Select, I know what to do when it happens again. Its my fault cause it broke, cause I overload the drawer with pots and pans LOL!!! Brenda Dixon

I removed the drawer, removed and replaced the guides on both sides in the front and replaced the drawer.

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

The drawer under the oven had been aggravating me for some time. It was titled and did not close right. Finally, I took it out to see what the problem was and noticed that the glides were broken. I googled the model no. of the stove (figuring I would have no luck) and to my great relief was directed to this EXCELLENT site. I ordered the new drawer glides within minutes and they were literally delivered the next day. Snapped right in, fixed, happy!! It's times like this when I can't figure out how we all lived without the internet!