91130469792 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Followed previous posts, just took out the metal pan (2) 1/4" head screws. Removed the ignitor bracket (2) 1/4" head screws. Disconnected the existing ceramic wirenuts. Removed the ignitor from the bracket......this was the hardest part as the self threading screw stripped out in the sheet metal. Took some time to remove that screw and re-tap the hole to #10-32. Once that was done used a #10-32 x 1/2" machine screw with lock washer. All went back together fine from there.

I put the grates in backwards and the wife had to turn them around after teasing me about it......maybe I should do more baking.......

removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.
opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.
I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors.
then just closed up everything in reverse.
helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.

0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.

First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

Removed side retainer pieces, screws above and below accessed by opening oven door and straight down on oven top. Then two back screws to free controller. Let console fall forward. Remove four screws holding oven circuit board, replace with new board, then carefully move one wire at a time from old board to new board. Used magnifying glass to verify labeling on tiny print on new board. Needed pliers to remove tight pin fittings. Need to focus and not forget labeling switching wires.

Although I thought I was done, it turned out later that the oven wasn't coming on. After taking it apart again, it seemed strange no wire was hooked to the oven prong on the circuit board. I tried switching a few and thank god nothing bad happened. I then studied the directions. There were mentions of wires I didn't have hooking to various places including the oven relay. So I wasn't sure what to do. The broiler has worked so I unhooked the broiler wire and fastened it to bake prong. The oven now worked. I clipped the unnecessary female prong wire from the old ground connected and spliced it into the broiler wire and then hooked it to the oven prong. The oven and broiler prongs are effectively hooked in parallel now. I tested it and the thermostat and shutoff worked properly with both the oven and broiler working.

All done after reassembly.

First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partselect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

first turned off the gas supply, second turned off breaker for that line,third removed 3 screws from each side of panel & end caps. Used bubble wrap to lower panel down to remove old part, changed one wire at a time to keep it right,next removed 4 screws to replace with new unit, screwed new one in place, put back on the side caps turned on the power & gas. The new part works just fine,back to working again. I just did this today, Thank You very much for the right part and great shipping time, I will get part from you again. Thanks for the fast service and the right part again. Easy as pie. Gary

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

Turn power to oven off at the breaker.
Remove access panel to upper control panel.
With the aid of an extension rod remove the hex headed screws succuring the fan to the baffle wall. Remove the fan. Replacement model did not have wire extending from it. So remove wire from original fan and attach it to the replacement fan terminals using an appropriate adapter. Install new fan in original position with original screws. Be sure to reconnect wire in the same orientation as the original fan (right side to white wire). Repeat process for the second fan in the upper control compartment. Handy trick for re-installing hex head screw in deep location....use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the hex head screw head inside the socket driver. After tightening is completed the tape will fall away from the screw.

Check that all wiring connections are back in place and tight. Re-install cover and turn the breaker back on. Test the oven out by heating it up again. It will take approximately 30 minutes to reach a steady state temperature inside the oven so that the circulation fans in the control panel turn on.