2783218890 Kenmore Range - Instructions

well,as with any repair that looks easy,i had to do a little more than what i had originally anticpated.
i was hoping for an access panel to the igniter,but after removing the lower drawer,there was only the heat shields and pans,about 20 screws later i got
to the igniter and spliced it in place,then reassembled it without too much fuss -now my 93 year old friend can bake her pecan pies for charity that is her favorite hobby-thanks

Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -

Using the crescent wrench, I first removed the bolt holding the cover plate that separates the wiring from the broiler section of the oven.

Then I removed the wire nuts that connected the wires from the igniter to the wires from the oven.

Then I removed the two screws that attached the igniter to the oven.

I then reversed the process, first attaching the igniter to the oven, then connecting the wires from the igniter to those from the oven using the wire nuts. Finally, I replaced the cover plate on the assembly.

The primary difficulty with the process was the small space to work in. One has to reach to the back of the broiler area to remove the bolt, screws and wire nuts. Some of these operations require two hands, and there's no room for both arms in this area.

However, that said, this is the third time we've replaced the igniter. It seems that it only lasts about 4 years before it needs to be replaced. It's not all that hard to do.

Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.

Turn off electric supplying appliance,then remove oven bottom plate.Remove ignitor wires from controller and oven control,then remove two screws holding burner ,lift burner from gas valve,remove two screws holding ignitor.Replace with new,and re-assemble.

I removed the bottom cover inside the oven. Beneath that was another cover held by two screws. I removed these and the ignitor was right there. I removed the bracket screws and pulled the ignitor away from the back wall of the oven and cut the two wires close to the ignitor, leaving enough wire to reconnect the wires from the oven outlet to the new ignitor with the supplied wire nuts. Then I re-attached the bracket to the new ignitor and once that was done simply reattached the unit to the back wall of the oven. The whole job is pretty straight forward, the only difficult part being the limited work space INSIDE the oven.

The stories posted on your web page are great - only improvement would to add a schematic of the parts being removed - no issues were encountered - great service by the way - part arrived the next day - a Saturday!

John M.

removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?

Removed bottom tray of oven, removed ignighter, unplug two wires.

Removed old igniter coil by removing 2 small hex head bolts and pulling the two wire plug connectors (be sure to unplug the range). Installed new coil and connected the wires with the ceramic wire nuts supplied with the new part.

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

I removed the oven racks and the bottom cover. The bottom cover had 2 hand tight screws. Then I had to remove the silver sheet metal plate attached with 1 screw. Then I removed the 2 small screws that held the old Igniter in place. Then removed the 2 wire nuts connected to the oven wires. The new igniter fit in the same place as the old and I attached it using the same old screws. Then I connected the wires using the new wire nuts provided in the igniter kit. After testing the new igniter by turning the oven on to 200F, i replaced all the parts i removed including the silver plate the oven bottom and the racks.

I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my plan :)