66575808002 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.

Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

We cheated; a local appliance repair company was called & the tech guy repaired it in 10 - 20 minutes. Couldn't be happier.

Loosened two screws and removed tray, very simple. Replaced new tray and adjusted screws to hold tray. Easiest part was finding new tray part number and ordering replacement using online parts diagram.

Following details from the installation video, after removing the main gas line and the two output lines I removed the four screws that removed the valve but found it was easier to remove and install the new one if I first removed the oven burner(it made for lining up the valve nozzle to the burner easier) from the inside, 3 wires attach on the side towards the stove taking one wire from the old valve and putting it on the new valve in the same place. Everything went back together just fine, I did have some problem with tightening one of the two gas lines for the output and found I just had to keep tightening it a little until there were no bubbles appearing when I applied soapy water to the connections, other than that it was very straight forward.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Unscrewed the old part and replaced it with the new part.
My son repaired it for me.

Was super easy even I could do it. Wish I would have done it 2 years ago when my husband broke it. Just used a Phillips screwdriver. Very easy!

1st gen whirlpool Duet dryer sensor not working in automatic cycle.
After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.