9117359180 Kenmore Range - Instructions

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Disconnect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.

My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea what I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm

removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven door.

I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

IThe schematics on the website were helpful for how everything goes together. I just followed the picture and then unscrewed all the screws that held the ignitor to the gas pipe. Have to pull out the gas pipe out first so you can get to the bolts, easy to do when you pull out the drawer and unscrew the hold down for the gas pipe.

No directions came with the part, and the length of the new wires weren't long enough nor did they have the attachment pieces that are needed to plug in the wires. However, helpful tips from others on the website told me that you have to cut the wires off the old part and screw the wires from the old to the new with the white plastic wire couplings. Worked like a charm!

It was a simple procedure, and I saved myself buying a new stove or paying someone else to fix it!