91136759792 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Roseland, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB31K5079, WB24T10071
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Igniter switch stopped working on one burner
The most difficult part of the repair was getting the front panel off. I needed to remove the top of the stove, which was easy but awkward - remove the two screws from each of the four burner bowls. Lift the bowls one by one, disconnect the wire and slide off the small clip under each igniter. Move the bowls and igniters out of the way. You will find a piece of sealant underneath the stove top covering the length of the front panel. You need to gently pry it off by lifting the stove top just enough to break the seal. Once the top is separated just gently move it to the back of the stove. You can now remove the 3 large screws underneath the front panel. There are also 2 screws under the plastic anchors that hold the front panel in place. Be careful, there are hidden screws in the back of each anchor, so don't break them. You just need to loosen them just enough to wiggle the front panel out. With the panel moved, the igniter switches are mounted over each knob. There is a spring washer clip holding them down. Gently pry off the clip of the damaged switch and disconnect the two wires. Make sure you put the wires back in the same order.
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- Customer:
- Keith from Frisco, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB31K5079
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner bowl mounting holes out of alignment
No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.
Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.
I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.
I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.
Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.
I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.
I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.
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- Customer:
- Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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- Customer:
- Carolyn from MASON, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Eve and from MIDLAND, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
One burner would not ignite.
I replaced the igniter under the knob.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Sara from AURORA, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB31K5079
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Scratches in drip pan from improper cleaning, spills during cooking.
The replacement part not right size for the porcelain cone for gas. Had to unscrew 2 screws remove the cone, after unclicking gas wire. The gas spreader did not fit with the cone in place.
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- Customer:
- pradyuman from Parlin, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Will not ignite
Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from AKRON, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Intermittent heat then no heat on oven element
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
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- Customer:
- WILLIAM from ALLENTOWN, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB36K5379
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
RT END CAP THAT WAS BR0KEN
REMOVED 5 PHILLIPS SCREWS
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE
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- Customer:
- HAROLD from Tucson, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Just follow the enclosed instructions
Followed the instructions
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- John from CASPER, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Bad sensor
By myself
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