9119268710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

1. Turned off power at the breaker box. Removed oven door from oven, and removed bake racks. Determined replacement element from PartSelect was correct. Inspected new element. Using meter, determined new element was OK via continuity test. Gathered all appropriate tools to do the job.
2. Using 1/4" nut driver, removed two retaining screws at back of oven that secure element
3. Pulled bad element out a few inches from oven back to reveal wires and spade connectors
4. Using screwdriver, pushed off electrical connectors from bad element and removed element
5. Inspected wires and connectors and determined them to be OK
6. Installed new element in reverse of above. Inspected oven controls and determined them to be OK. Turned on the breaker. Tested oven.
7. Baked a delicious chocolate cake

Rating: 5 Stars!! We cut the power, removed two screws disconnected the two wires (just pulled them out of the covers) from the old element and pushed in the new ones. It didn't take longer than 10 minutes!

This is the first time it's been as easy as promised! Great customer service in addition to easy and reasonable prices!
Thank you,

1st, Turn off the stove at the electrical box. 2nd, Remove the oven door by opening it to the first stop, and then pulled it straight up. 3rd, Remove the 2 screws using a 1/4" nut driver. 4th Pull the old heating element straight out, until the two wires that attach to the element are out 3" from rear oven wall. (Note: Place a peace of tape around each wire before disconnecting from the element. this will keep the wires from falling back through the holes). Remove the wires from the old element and remove the old element. 4th Place the new element into the oven, place the wires onto the new element. Then reverse the order of removal for new element install, for the repair. Less than 10 minutes.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

pulled stove out from wall about a foot ans disconnected the electricity cord. removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled it out a bout 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. attached the new element & pushed it in place and tighrened the 2 screws. hooked up the electric power, moved stove back in place & it was done!

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

Removed the oven door. Released spring on hinge. Removed 3 screws. Removed broken hinge and replaced new hinge reversing these steps.

Slid door off hinges. Removed 3 screws which hold hinge in place. Removed drawer to access spring for hinge. Gasped at all the crumbs and crap which had collected underneath the drawer. Cleaned up crumbs+crap from floor. Disconnected spring from hinge and removed old hinge completely. Installed new hinge with 3 screws. Attached spring to hinge - center hole fitting. Slid drawer back in place. Angled hinges outward in order to re-install door. Slid door back onto hinges. Door now operates nice and smoothly. Job well done.

Watched youtube....

This is how I did it--but I would strongly recommend you do step 4 first, and skip step 3! Remember, because 240V circuits have 2 "hot" wires, they may be "hot" (120V to ground) even when switched off!

1. Removed the mounting screws with a nut driver.
2. Pulled out the old element. BARE lug connectors on loose wires came out with it.
3. Watched an impressive show of sparks.
4. TURNED OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER.
5. Separated the connectors. Had to use pliers on the one I "fried".
6. Connected new element (connectors pushed together easily.
7. Reattached with screws
8. Turned breaker back on.

Watched youtube. Easy and fast!