79071771100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

took out the cove plate inside oven. romoved old igniter load.cutt and stripped new wire to new ignighter , using ceramic wire nuts supplied. reinstalled all and voila. it's as good as new. PS just for safety sake always unplug appliance from power.

Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .

First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I reattached the new piece. It was the easiest thing ever and i'm a woman!

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires....install new element and woalla.........save thangsguivingday thanks to part select .com..........

The repair was simple - I first needed to test the original igniter with a circuit tester. Once I determined that the part was bad, I simply removed it and replaced it with a new one from Partselect. It was a matter of simply unplugging a few wires and splicing the new igniter in with wirenuts. Fairly simple.

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires nuts, (from last repair) installed new igniter. Not rocket science here.

1. Removed top over the oven burner.
2. cut the two wires conneted to the igniter about
an inch and a half.Noted which wire goes to the top of the igniter and which one went to the bottom.
3. unscrewed the igniter from the mount and
carefully pulled it from the oven.
4. put the new igniter wires through the hole.
5. mounted the igniter to the burner.
6. attached the new wires to the top and bottom old wires with the connectors that came with the igniter.
7. pluged the range back in and turned on the oven. Igniter works great.

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.